You're going to have a stiff hike to get here, and that's one of the wonders of the place. Climb up beside the foaming waterfall of Cauldron Snout, and then you're trekking across a flat, forbidding moorland plateau. Nothing prepares you for what comes next.

High Cup Nick is like an axe blow cloven into the moorland. The land falls away below you; the Eden valley stretches out towards the horizon, a patchwork of green fields. To the side, basalt crags tower, like the spires of a primitive cathedral. Climb down into the Nick and the wind suddenly stops; you're poised above the world.

Best to start near Middleton in Teesdale or at Cow Green car park

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