This Suffolk institution has been in the family for generations, and is the town's biggest attraction. (Oh all right, there's a nice church and a castle too. And the sea. But it's the smokehouse which makes Orford unique.)
As you crawl from Adnams pub to Adnams inn, past dinky rose-covered cottages and half-timbered homes, don't forget to pop in for a gander at the rows of fish, chicken or cheeses being smoked on the blackened trays. There are no signs, but it's easy to find: just follow your nose (or the smoke) down Bakers Lane, and it's set back on the right. A narrow marble-topped counter in a small room next to the smokehouse has a selection of pâtés and cheeses on top, while the chiller units below display rows of oak-blackened fish, sausages and chickens.
Fed up with losing money on the mountains of kipper pâté she produced and had to throw away (because of the enormous minimum quantities of fish she was forced to buy), Roni has just introduced a new flavour to her range: herring roe pâté. We tried one of the first batches and nearly passed out from its deliciousness. It's strong, so a small tub goes a long way (that's about an hour in my fridge before it is all gobbled up.)
Don't leave without some hot smoked chorizo sausages; home-made and gluten-free, they'll blow your head off and impress (or kill) the neighbours.
My Earl Grey order appeared in a small glass tea pot, from which it was poured into a mismatched bone china cup and saucer in hues of green. This is not the kind of family-run café to serve bags filled with factory sweepings; my tea had been made from the finest leaves in the eastern Himalaya, then massaged with bergamot oil by local virgins. But the full fat blast of texture and flavour from my "Pastel de Nata" (egg custard tart to the rest of us) swept away any pretensions. My partner's mocha was "the creamiest mocha I've ever tasted; 60% chocolate," and his pastry had the right balance of short, cake and chocolate. The waitress – who seemed to have taken a break from the local bridge club to come and help – topped up my pot and chatted to us about sailing round the world and the Royal Bombay Yacht Club.
This is a lovely little bakery-cum-café-cum-restaurant. Don't miss it if you're ever in Orford.
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