Just off the east coast of Shetland lies Mousa, an isle uninhabited by humans, but home to seals and sea birds. If you are lucky you might see a harbour porpoise on the short ferry crossing and, for a few short weeks in the summer, there are night time trips to see and hear thousands of storm petrels nesting in an ancient broch. If the tide is out when you arrive back at the pier in Sandwick the stony beach is brilliant for rockpooling too. (Note that in 2011 repairs are taking place so a different pier is being used.)

www.mousa.co.uk
+44(0)1950 431 367
Google map: bit.ly/mapT6A

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The Böd of Nesbister lies on a spit of shingle on Whiteness Voe on the west coast of Shetland. Originally a stone built bothy for fishermen during the fishing season, the Böd has been converted into basic accommodation by the Shetland Amenity Trust. Its location, overlooking a lovely inlet with winding views to cliffscapes and the open sea, is remote and romantic. With no electricity, the candlelit Böd is the perfect place to encounter a ghost. It felt like a kindly soul and, obligingly, stopped its noisy business when we asked it to. In the morning we came across the visitors’ book and discovered that we were by no means the first to have had a haunted stay.

www.camping-bods.com

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Unst is Britain's most northerly inhabited island, and Saxa Vord is the summit at its most northerly point. On a good day you have a spectacular view south over the Shetlands, with the dramatic cliffs of the western coast clearly visible, and to the north a fine view of the Muckle Flugga Lighthouse and the Out Stack - the full stop at the end of Britain. Go due north from this point, and you would not hit land again until you reached the eastern end of Siberia. The view, in short, is breathtaking, and you do not have to be a twitcher to appreciate the varied sea birds swooping around you and down into the waters of Burrafirth, which lies between Sara Vord and Muckle Flugga.

The only problem is that Saxa Vord is a bit of a black hole in most tourist guides. They recommend viewing Muckle Flugga and the Out Stack from Hermaness National Nature Reserve, involving a two hour hike from the car park. While this is also recommended, there is an alternative way of enjoying the view. Drive north on the B9087 through Haroldswick, until you reach the Saxa Vord resort on your right. This was built as accommodation for the former RAF listening station on Saxa Vord, which closed in 2006. There is a turning to your left which leads up towards the hill. Take this road, and ignore the succession of signs that warn you that this is MoD property and that you should keep out. These signs become increasingly severe in their tone until, when you reach the gates of the old base, they read simply: "Persons entering the area may be arrested and prosecuted". Continue to ignore the signs, but possibly best to have a lawyer's number on your mobile.

Park up close to the gate and walk around to the left, following the perimeter fence. There are cliffs to your left, so bear this in mind as you continue towards the view of the Out Stack, but as long as you keep to within 50 feet or so of the fence you will be fine. In addition to one of Shetland's (and Britain's) most stunning views, you also have the bizarre constructions of a cold war defence fortress to your right.

Go and picnic at the end of the world!

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Shetland's former capital is a village with 1,000 inhabitants and a small but busy boatyard. Very much a working community, Scalloway has much to attract the visitor in terms of history. Its hotel, located between the equally excellent museum and second hand bookstore/post office, offers great food at good prices. Much use is made of local produce, and the cuisine is Scottish/French - good attention to detail, and very attentive and friendly service. The hotel provides separate public bar and dining room - and the food can be enjoyed in either. The dining room has an air of formality about it, but is very family friendly. An imaginative menu, good cooking, and throughtful presentation. Three courses for two plus wine, coffee and an excellent selection of local cheeses - just under £100. Highly recommended.

Main St, Scalloway, Shetland, ZE1 0TR
01595 880444

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