The Böd of Nesbister lies on a spit of shingle on Whiteness Voe on the west coast of Shetland. Originally a stone built bothy for fishermen during the fishing season, the Böd has been converted into basic accommodation by the Shetland Amenity Trust. Its location, overlooking a lovely inlet with winding views to cliffscapes and the open sea, is remote and romantic. With no electricity, the candlelit Böd is the perfect place to encounter a ghost. It felt like a kindly soul and, obligingly, stopped its noisy business when we asked it to. In the morning we came across the visitors’ book and discovered that we were by no means the first to have had a haunted stay.

www.camping-bods.com

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Unst is Britain's most northerly inhabited island, and Saxa Vord is the summit at its most northerly point. On a good day you have a spectacular view south over the Shetlands, with the dramatic cliffs of the western coast clearly visible, and to the north a fine view of the Muckle Flugga Lighthouse and the Out Stack - the full stop at the end of Britain. Go due north from this point, and you would not hit land again until you reached the eastern end of Siberia. The view, in short, is breathtaking, and you do not have to be a twitcher to appreciate the varied sea birds swooping around you and down into the waters of Burrafirth, which lies between Sara Vord and Muckle Flugga.

The only problem is that Saxa Vord is a bit of a black hole in most tourist guides. They recommend viewing Muckle Flugga and the Out Stack from Hermaness National Nature Reserve, involving a two hour hike from the car park. While this is also recommended, there is an alternative way of enjoying the view. Drive north on the B9087 through Haroldswick, until you reach the Saxa Vord resort on your right. This was built as accommodation for the former RAF listening station on Saxa Vord, which closed in 2006. There is a turning to your left which leads up towards the hill. Take this road, and ignore the succession of signs that warn you that this is MoD property and that you should keep out. These signs become increasingly severe in their tone until, when you reach the gates of the old base, they read simply: "Persons entering the area may be arrested and prosecuted". Continue to ignore the signs, but possibly best to have a lawyer's number on your mobile.

Park up close to the gate and walk around to the left, following the perimeter fence. There are cliffs to your left, so bear this in mind as you continue towards the view of the Out Stack, but as long as you keep to within 50 feet or so of the fence you will be fine. In addition to one of Shetland's (and Britain's) most stunning views, you also have the bizarre constructions of a cold war defence fortress to your right.

Go and picnic at the end of the world!

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Shetland's former capital is a village with 1,000 inhabitants and a small but busy boatyard. Very much a working community, Scalloway has much to attract the visitor in terms of history. Its hotel, located between the equally excellent museum and second hand bookstore/post office, offers great food at good prices. Much use is made of local produce, and the cuisine is Scottish/French - good attention to detail, and very attentive and friendly service. The hotel provides separate public bar and dining room - and the food can be enjoyed in either. The dining room has an air of formality about it, but is very family friendly. An imaginative menu, good cooking, and throughtful presentation. Three courses for two plus wine, coffee and an excellent selection of local cheeses - just under £100. Highly recommended.

Main St, Scalloway, Shetland, ZE1 0TR
01595 880444

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We found this small island, (pop. 48ish) to be a place that was both beautiful and timeless. Beautiful because of its spectacular and uncluttered land and sea scapes; timeless because there was really nothing that we, or anyone else could find to be in a hurry about.

We stayed at the one and only Bed and Breakfast run by Nic who, besides running the island post office and shop, excels at cooking the most tasty and generous breakfasts and evening meals (when he is not practising his penny whistle...) recommended.

Well synchronised travel by bus/ferry/bus/ferry from Lerwick to Fetlar.
Nic's B and B; 01957 733227
nicboxall@btinternet.com

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It may be tiny, but this Shetland island has a population of thousands - birds, that is. Species include 45,000 guillemots, 7000 pairs of gannets and fulmars, kittiwakes and puffins galore. Visit in early summer when the puffins hatch out of their burrows in such numbers that you have to be careful not to step on them.

Travel across from the larger island of Bressay in an inflatable boat.

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Foula wears its five-thousand-year history on its sleeve, and has survived centuries of depopulation and underpopulation until today it is one of the most isolated communities to be found anywhere in Europe.

Located about twenty miles west of Shetland Mainland, in the wilds of the North Atlantic, Foula is THE ideal getaway spot for people who love landscapes, flowers, birds, cetacean life - and who don't hanker for crowds or pubs or fancy restaurants or even shops (because Foula has none of those!)

As well as the highest cliffs in occupied Britain (over a quarter of a mile of vertical rock!), Foula is a delight to walk and explore, and its tiny population of under 30 residents make you feel very much at home. I've been travelling for over thirty years, have visited more than forty countries - and would go back to Foula again in a heartbeat.

For general information go to the Shetland Tourist Board:

www.visitshetland.com

More specific Foula information is here: www.foulaheritage.org.uk/

For a wonderful croft B&B in the stunning north part of the island, contact Isobel Holbourn at 01595 753233; Isobel also has a delightful little cottage available for self-catering holidays.

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This one's extreme. You get here via a tiny six-seater plane or a white-knuckle three-hour boat trip from Shetland. The best (usually the only) place to stay is the Bird Observatory, where you get fed within an inch of your life on home baking. You can join the twitchers with their birding work, thrill to cliff-top walks bombarded by broody skuas, check out the knitting in the island museum, and just soak up the sound of sea and silence.

Fair Isle
Shetland

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