I recently bought an old tourist guidebook published in 1931 called "The Lure of the Cambrian Coast". The preface closed with a fine description of this part of the world: "the lovely Cambrian coast resorts are washed by the Atlantic Ocean, and the ozone-laden breezes, mingling with the pure mountain air, bring colour to the cheek and radiance to the eye. Sunshine records are high, and no industrial smoke obscures the beneficent ultra-violet rays."
Aside possibly from the reference to sunshine records, this really is a true description of the area. For those wishing to take in the ozone-rich mountain air, the craggy edifice of Cader Idris looms large over Dolgellau enticing the serious hill walker. For a gentler walk from Dolgellau, or even a bike ride, you can follow the river Wnion and Mawddach Estuary along the old railway line. The old trackbed hugs the estuary and passes through idyllic Penmaenpool to Morfa Mawddach (once Barmouth Junction) where it meets the modern day line. The mile-long bridge to Barmouth has a parallel footpath which is a splendid, often windswept, wooden promenade from which to look down the estuary to your point of departure; Dolgellau. Featured on the BBC's "Railway Walks", presented by Julia Bradbury, this walk is a real treat and must have been one of the most scenic train rides in Wales before the line was closed in the 1960s by Dr. Beeching.
There are several old halls near Dolgellau that once belonged to wealthy families, some of whom acquired their wealth in the aforementioned "industrial smoke". One such is Penmaenuchaf Hall just few miles outside Dolgellau at Penmaenpool. Once the country retreat of the Leigh Taylors from Bolton, it's now a country house hotel set in CADW listed private grounds. If you're looking for an oasis of luxury while inhaling the pure, Celtic breezes this is the place.
www.penhall.co.uk
Penmaenuchaf Hall Hotel
Penmaenpool
Dolgellau
Gwynedd
North Wales
LL40 1YB
t: 01341 422129
(Nearest railway station: Morfa Mawddach)
Stepping into Debbie Bryan's studio and shop you get a true sense of the comfort and joy to be found in owning an original piece of British Designers work.
Beautifully displayed, innovative pieces capture your imagination and you're soon sure to be charmed by their individuality and affordable prices. With lots of events and workshop evenings on offer this studio/shop is a fantastic place to be inspired and creative.
18 St Mary's Gate, Lace Market, Nottingham, 0115 9507776. www.debbiebryan.co.uk
A few months ago my boyfriend and I headed for a country break to Devon for a long weekend. We caught the train bright and early on a gorgeous Friday morning and before too long we were driving along the tiny country lanes in East Devon in search of our bed & breakfast. Listening to BBC Devon and watching field after field and horses and cows go by, we felt ourselves slowly being de-Londonised...
There it was our turning along a tiny dirt track, past the nearest 'village' Southleigh which consisted of a post box and village noticeboard. We passed a few farms and lovely converted barns and finally drove up the driveway to our bed & breakfast Glebe House, sitting beautifully on top of a hill. My kind of place.
Breathtaking views of the valley and surrounding farmhouses, wooden table and chairs for that night cap (or in my case peppermint tea) in the evening, and a welcoming host. I'd only just gotten there and I was already dreading leaving.
Our host, Emma, served us tea and cookies in the conservatory and then showed us to our room upstairs with views of the garden.
It was a perfect location for exploring the nearby villages, beaches and Moors. We spent a day at the beautiful beach town Lyme Regis, a day in the wild and rugged Dartmoor national park and a day in idyllic and hip town of Totnes.
I'm all about staying local, and luckily there are seemingly never ending options in this very country...
Glebe House
www.guestsatglebe.com/
Glebe House
Southleigh
Colyton
Devon EX24 6SD
Tel/Fax: 01404 871276
An ancient village inn right by the fishermen's pier at Port Bannatyne. Five guest rooms; continental hospitality; freshly landed seafood including langoustine.
This place is of exceptional quality and thankfully very relaxed about it all... no tablecloths or pack-drill, just French quality meals, real ales, and Russian wines, beers and vodkas.
A mile long sandy beach and 200 seals close by. Be very nice to these good Russians they are providing a service unknown to Scotland! Along the seashore is a little marina and a pitch for playing Petanque.
Behind the village is a 13 hole golf-course with fabulous views over the water to islands, mountains and forests.
The Russian Tavern,
Seashore, Port Bannatyne, Isle of Bute, Argyll
01700 505073
www.butehotel.com
delicious.com/RogerMortimer
portbannatynemarina.co.uk
www.portbannatynepetanque.org.uk
www.portbannatynegolf.co.uk
Ferry for Bute leaves from Wemyss Bay on the A78 between Greenock and Largs. Direct train from Glasgow Central, and from Glasgow Int Airport and Prestwick Airport (RyanAir) RyanAir psssengers go half-price on the train.
Beautiful woodland waterfall on the edge of Dartmoor - a reminder that this was once a wooded hospitable area to live. Climbing on the boulders included on the walking map!
www.beckyfalls.com/visitor.php
Eastern side of Dartmoor near Bovey Tracey and Newton Abbot.
Norsehaven is the kind of place you can only dream about when in London. It is not the easiest of places to get to, being on the very north western tip of mainland Britain, but the trip is worth it. You could not be further from the stresses of the city when up there.
We have just returned from a week in Ceannabeinne, a lovingly restored croft nestled on the cliff side, with unspoilt sea views that are to die for. It is almost unbelievably idyllic - it has to be seen to be believed!
web: www.norsehaven.com
tel: 01732 882320
map: maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=104563659452458983581.000454e2a5aa490185440&ll=58.532964,-4.74300424,0.219727&z=12
I feel very lucky to live close to The Foredown Tower, which is home to one of only two operational camera obscuras in South East England. A camera obscura is an unusual optical device that is used to observe the landscape, sun and sky.
The building, an Edwardian water tower built in 1909, is of architectural interest and has been converted with considerable care to preserve many original features.
A luxury apartment right in the centre of Whitby, next to the harbour and overlooking the old town and sea. Really comfortable and stylishly furnished. Great views across the harbour, particularly in the evening looking over to the floodlit Abbey and old town.
Pier Apartment, 2/3 Pier road, Whitby YO21 3PU
www.pierapartmentwhitby.co.uk
01947 602447
0778 658 0738
Many people will have walked the streets of Newcastle without ever knowing what lies a few feet beneath them...
The Victoria tunnel is a wagon way that runs for three miles underneath Newcastle city centre. Dug out in 1842 to carry coal from the Town Moor colliery at Spittal Tongues to the keelboats on the Tyne, it then lay unused from 1860 to 1940, when it served as an air raid shelter and pedestrian subway.
Volunteer guides now run guided walks for small groups(choice of half hour or two hours) and bring its history alive with infectious enthusiasm.
The tunnel entrance is in Ouseburn. For more information and to book a tour visit www.ouseburntrust.org
The Highcliff Grill Restaurant in Bournemouth is a fantastic place. The restaurant offers a great environment, friendly members of staff, superb choice, excellent food quality and a fantastic location overlooking the sea – it’s simply the best restaurant in Bournemouth.
Highcliff Grill Restaurant
Bournemouth Highcliff Marriott Hotel
St Michael's Road
Bournemouth BH2 5DU
T. 01202 200 800
W. www.highcliffgrill.co.uk
Excellent Thai restaurant - with lots of veggie options, and some more unusual dishes too. Try some of the chef's specialities. Everything we had was great. If Jintana was in London (my home town) I would definitely be a regular.
Jintana Thai Restaurant
Lake Road,
Bowness-on-Windermere,
Cumbria,
LA23 3BJ
Telephone: 015394 45002
Email: eat@jintanathaicuisine.com
www.jintanathaicuisine.com/
nearest station: Windermere
Long gone are the days of my childhood, spent hunting for huge, edible pink crab with my great-uncle on the rocks of West Pentire. However, Vugga Cove on Crantock beach still holds many delights for rockpoolers, young and old.
This archipelago of pools is a tapestry of oxygenating wispy lime green and the burnt umbers and siennas of bladderwrack. Skylarks sing overhead as you hunt with bucket and net for fish and crab. The tiniest of creatures await to be inspected; sea lice, baby translucent fish, shrimps. Two-inch long stickleback and little shore crabs lurk in crevices.
Later, hot and sticky from the chase, you can swim in the warmed waters of Peggy's pool before the tide sweeps in to cover it.
Crantock beach, near Newquay, Cornwall
You sit on the side of the harbour and dangle a net/hook into the water and wait. After a while you pull the line back up and hope there's a crab or two hanging onto the end. You can buy a crabbing line from nearly all the toy/corner shops around Padstow for about £1. We found that by tying and net or an old vest onto the hook and filling that with 'welks' you caught more crabs as they attached themselves to the net. You can buy welks from the local fishmongers for a pound a pot. Or simply ask to have the leftovers of the fish parts which they will give you for a small contribution of 50p or so. Another tip is to take a fishing net, as we found the crabs fall off. So once you pull the line out of the water, put the net under crab and it will fall off into it - then you can put it into your bucket filled with water and watch them move about. Once finished crabbing however, then done thing is to take your bucket to the waters edge and tip it over and watch your crabs run back into the water. It's so much fun, and if visiting Padstow harbour, this is one the the things you MUST try.
Harbour Office
West Quay, Padstow, PL28 8AQ
01841 532239
Great views of the Lake District mountains, a wonderful valley after first climb and a lesser walked route, so no busy crowds.
About three miles east from the pier at Herne Bay are some fantastic rock-pools. They cover a large area and are entirely made up of weirdly flat boulders, so it looks a platform game. You can happily spend time jumping from boulder to boulder, or playing games to work out the quickest way to the sea without stepping on the sand. The boulders are covered in weed though, so be careful you don't slip.
Best of all, there are lots of little rock-pools between the boulders with crabs, anemones, little shrimp-things etc. And the flat boulders provide the perfect standing platform to watch them all.
The whole place was totally deserted on a warm Saturday in June - a hidden gem!
Once you head back to Herne Bay, Ernie's Plaice does excellent fish and chips (eat on sea-front) or you can have a classic Knickerbocker Glory sat in one of the kitschy red booths at KC's Ice cream parlour. Their chocolate-orange ice cream is especially nice.
Turn right (as you face the sea) and walk along the sea-front, then down onto the beach when it finishes. Rock-pools are about 3 miles from the centre of town at low-tide only. Or you could drive to Reculver Lane and walk down from the church car-park (much closer).
When the tide goes out at West Runton beach near Sheringham it reveals a community of amazing creatures clinging to rocks, swimming in the salty shallows and sunning themselves on the once full pools. If you've forgotten your buckets, nets and spades, then the on-site cafe will sell you anything you need as well as a lovely cup of tea you can take down to the beach!
Follow the "beach" signs from West Runton village to the carpark.
This is the best place we have found for crabbing. It's a secret what to use to attract the crabs (don't tell anyone, but we always used liver).
Sometimes you would get the crab to the top of the pier before it let go. Now it is my grandchildren's time for this treat they have a cheat; a net that lays underneath, so when the crabs let go they fall in the net.
In Carnival Week in August there is a Crab catching competition.
Cromer is a lovely little seaside town which has not been spoilt yet, lovely for children's summer holidays.
Cromer has a train station. You catch the train from Norwich.
Take crabbing to the highest possible level by competing in the British Open Crabbing Championship held every year in the seaside village of Walberswick. Described as a competition for “children of all ages” – the only condition being that you weren’t born before 1890 - there can be few greater pleasures than joining the hundreds of competitors with line, weight and bait (bacon is said to be best, but the professionals will keep their choice to themselves) and then teasing the crab out of the water and into the bucket. If you can’t make it to Walberswick on Sunday 9th August this summer then any other day will do. Our daughters, now in their late teens, have the fondest memories of hanging off a bridge, filling a bucket with crabs and then releasing them, often a hundred at a time. An essential family experience.
Walberswick is in Suffolk, across the river from Southwold (take the rowed ferry) Details of the crabbibg championships at www.walberswick.ws/crabbing/
Sandwich your beach visit with a delicious ice cream.
Okay, I'm biased because I live here, but Whitley Bay has one of the best beaches in the world - loads of sand, luscious seaweed, intriguing rock pools and an amazing view north towards the wonderfully photogenic St Mary's Lighthouse.
When you have had enough of exploring the delights left behind by the tide, head up Watts Slope onto Marine Avenue (beside the Spanish City dome which is currently being refurbished) for 'real' fish and chips from one of the many cafes and follow it with a traditionally made Italian ice cream from Delaval Ices at the Cafe Mediterraneo.
Tyne and Wear Metro - Whitley Bay
Newgale is a beautiful, long, sandy beach and a favourite haunt of surfers. There's handy car parking and a small village with a surf school, cafe (Sands Cafe) and camping behind the beach.
Walk south along the beach to find the rockpools with crabs, anemone's.
Newgale SA62 6AS
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
Search Been there