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If you walking the Welsh Coastal Path or just holidaying near Cardigan, make sure that you visit Aberporth for its safe sandy beaches and hike north round the headland to the cove at Tresaith for a pint and lunch - the food is really excellent
www.shiptresaith.co.uk/index.htm
Tresaith, Cardigan, Dyfed, SA43 2JL
01239 811 816
Google map: tinyurl.com/ycynf2k
The Ardvasar Hotel offers a wide range of excellent food and drink. The service is friendly and quick. Accommodation is available and there is a restaurant, a lounge and a small public bar. Outside there is a splendid view of the Sound of Sleat, with a chance of spotting seals and otters (and other resident wildlife). I saw a pair of buzzards when I was there but sadly the other fauna failed to show.
The hotel is a very short distance from Armadale, where the ferry from Mallaig to Skye anchors. There is a good walk from Ardvasar towards the Point of Sleat, and the views from the higher parts of the walk are outstanding, especially towards Rum and Eigg, in one direction, and to Morar, on the mainland.
The Ardvasar Hotel, Ardvasar, Sleat, Isle of Skye IV45 8RS.
www.ardvasarhotel.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/yhzudkl
The Stein Inn states that it is the oldest inn on the Isle of Skye, and its venerable bars, sturdy walls and highly impressive archive of malts certainly lend veracity to the claim. There is a wide range of beers and other drinks, the food menu is ample, and the service is attentive and prompt.
In good weather (or foul weather if you're after the complete Highland experience) you can sit outside and take in the view of Loch Bay towards Loch Dunvegan and, if the day was really clear, as far as the wonderfully named Gob na Hoe (could anyone, even a Scot, spit that far?).
The Stein Inn, Waternish, by Dunvegan, Isle of Skye IV55 8GA.
www.steininn.co.uk
Google map: tinyurl.com/ykk987n
The Lake District is at its most colourful in autumn, but the view is often obscured by rain clouds. Arnside, just south of the Lakes, often escapes the worst of the bad weather and has some lovely, gentle woodland walks. For a great view of the rich and varied autumn colours, walk through the native woodlands to the summit of Arnside Knott where you can look down on the foliage from above when you get to the top. On a clear day you get a view right across Morecombe Bay to see the magnificent outline of the Lake District fells stretching as far north as Skiddaw. There's a leaflet that contains the walk at www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-arnside_knott-wildlife_walk.pdf And there's even a great cafe stop when you get back down to Arnisde Promenade; perfect!
Arnside, Cumbria
Google map: tinyurl.com/yj2m2us
One of the most unforgettable scenes in film history is the opening of The French Lieutenant’s Woman where Charles Smithson first glimpses a mysterious cloaked woman. It’s 1867 and Sarah Woodruff is looking out to sea from the 13th century serpentine seawall known as the Cobb in Lyme Regis. Merryl Streep plays Sarah although a body double - a bearded man - was used in part of this scene.
The Cobb also figures in the BBC TV-film adaptation of Jane Austen’s Persuasion. Here the spirited Louisa Musgrove falls hard onto the cobblestones and is rendered unconscious.
Lyme Regis, www.lymeregis.org
Nearest station - Axminster, Devon
Crocodile Cafe in Muswell HIll. Mad service and strange food, but good coffee and a quirky terrace. Inside, the room is quiet, without baristas crashing their espresso filters on the bin. Stunning views across London.
122 Muswell hill
N10 3RU
Unst is Britain's most northerly inhabited island, and Saxa Vord is the summit at its most northerly point. On a good day you have a spectacular view south over the Shetlands, with the dramatic cliffs of the western coast clearly visible, and to the north a fine view of the Muckle Flugga Lighthouse and the Out Stack - the full stop at the end of Britain. Go due north from this point, and you would not hit land again until you reached the eastern end of Siberia. The view, in short, is breathtaking, and you do not have to be a twitcher to appreciate the varied sea birds swooping around you and down into the waters of Burrafirth, which lies between Sara Vord and Muckle Flugga.
The only problem is that Saxa Vord is a bit of a black hole in most tourist guides. They recommend viewing Muckle Flugga and the Out Stack from Hermaness National Nature Reserve, involving a two hour hike from the car park. While this is also recommended, there is an alternative way of enjoying the view. Drive north on the B9087 through Haroldswick, until you reach the Saxa Vord resort on your right. This was built as accommodation for the former RAF listening station on Saxa Vord, which closed in 2006. There is a turning to your left which leads up towards the hill. Take this road, and ignore the succession of signs that warn you that this is MoD property and that you should keep out. These signs become increasingly severe in their tone until, when you reach the gates of the old base, they read simply: "Persons entering the area may be arrested and prosecuted". Continue to ignore the signs, but possibly best to have a lawyer's number on your mobile.
Park up close to the gate and walk around to the left, following the perimeter fence. There are cliffs to your left, so bear this in mind as you continue towards the view of the Out Stack, but as long as you keep to within 50 feet or so of the fence you will be fine. In addition to one of Shetland's (and Britain's) most stunning views, you also have the bizarre constructions of a cold war defence fortress to your right.
Go and picnic at the end of the world!
A cream tea at the Knoll House, at Studland in Dorset, is not for people nervous about their cholesterol levels. Large light scones, freshly made in the kitchen, are accompanied by lashings of thick strawberry jam and cream so stiff it can be cut with a knife. A traditional loaded tea tray is brought out clinking to you on the terrace, so as you eat you can gaze out across manicured lawns through the pillars of mature pine trees to the sea. The view sweeps from Old Harry Rocks to the right, past the Isle of Wight to the townscape of Bournemouth. There is always plenty to see, with sailing boats as well as ferries plying in and out of Poole Harbour.
But visitors must plan their cream tea with military precision. Teas are advertised only on a small board in reception, directing visitors to order tea in the dining room. It is served only from 3.45 to 5.15 pm – five minutes late and you’ve missed one of the best cream teas in England. Cream tea for one is currently £5.
Not that I’m biased; but there is only one possible way to enjoy a cream tea. It has to be a Cornish cream tea, in Cornwall, and within sight and sound of the sea. Walk the circular coastal path of St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly, take all day, and it’s possible to fit in at least three. With the ambience right, attention can then be turned to the secondary requirements: yes, you will be sat outside in tranquil gardens where “peace comes dropping slow,” yes there is enough thick yellow Cornish clotted to make you feel nauseous (after your third loaded scone), real jam, pretty crockery, and unlimited refills of tea with no stinting on the milk. I first did this cream tea crawl on my honeymoon in 1983 and I’ve been taking my husbands along ever since. Juliet’s Garden and Carn Vean Tea Gardens are highly recommended; but once back in Hugh Town, the crème of cream teas can be enjoyed on the ramparts of Star Castle Hotel, an Elizabethan castle in the shape of an eight pointed star, overlooking the harbour. (When the nausea passes off, you might feel like going down when the sun does, to the Dungeon bar below and ordering the best five course dinner on the island).
www.star-castle.co.uk/
Cream teas are £5.00 per person and include 2 home-made
fruit scones, clotted cream, strawberry jam and a pot of tea.
The impossibly pretty port of Uig nestles at the foot of some of the most spectacular scenery in Skye, and views of this coastline are magnificent as you set off for Uist.
Dolphins may be seen as you cross the Minch. Try the peaceful and quietly swanky Observation Lounge if the deck's too blustery.
If you manage to catch an early ferry, why not book a sea-kayaking lesson from Uist Outdoor Centre in the afternoon - you can explore the tiny islands in the harbour at Lochmaddy spotting otters, birds and seals then surf back to the centre on the next ferry's wake.
www.calmac.co.uk, Tel: +44 (0)1475 650 100 fares £4.90 single, £9.80 return, bikes are free, nearest rail station Kyle of Lochalsh, buses from here or Portree
www.uistoutdoorcentre.co.uk,
+44 (0)1876 500 480 sea-kayaking lessons £35 for 3 hours (adults)
This is best ferry we have been on! Just a short crossing from Kingswear across to Dartmouth will leave you speechless. The ferry only takes about 10 minutes, and you will take in some of the most magnificent houses and colourful buildings as you apprach Dartmouth. My children always burst into the song 'Balamory' whenever we cross, as that's just what it's like. Rows of colourful buildings.
Kingswear Devon.
www.devonguide.com/photos/img384.htm
Last year I took the Scillionian III Ferry from Penzance to the Isles of Scilly. The Scilly Isles are approximately twenty-eight miles from Cornwall, and the ferry journey is an eye-wateringly two-and-a-half hours long.
However, it is a wonderful journey. There is a restaurant inside the ferry and you can sit on the deck and breathe the sea air as you whizz past the spectacular coastline of South East Cornwall, including St. Michael's Mount, Landsend and (you can just about make it out) the legendary Minack Theatre. The Isles are a glorious sight to behold and it is a journey I will never forget.
Isles of Scilly Travel Centre
Quay Street
Penzance
Cornwall TR18 4BZ
Telephone:
Within the UK: (local call rate) 0845 710 5555
International: +44 (0) 1736 334220
Facsimile +44 (0) 1736 334228
www.islesofscilly-travel.co.uk
St Abb’s Head is the best place to go whatever the time of year. With cliffs rising some 300 ft out of the sea you can see much further than if sitting at sea level, and as the headland juts out into the sea it also gives you a panoramic view. In the summer months there are also the sights, sounds and smells of a seabird colony in full swing.
Haunt of Rupert Brooke, the snug is how he would have known it though the pub has been extended and has excellent beers and good lunches. A quick walk into the nearby woods and you don't need a balloon for stunning views of four counties from the Chiltern escarpment.
Princes Risborough station.
I recently bought an old tourist guidebook published in 1931 called "The Lure of the Cambrian Coast". The preface closed with a fine description of this part of the world: "the lovely Cambrian coast resorts are washed by the Atlantic Ocean, and the ozone-laden breezes, mingling with the pure mountain air, bring colour to the cheek and radiance to the eye. Sunshine records are high, and no industrial smoke obscures the beneficent ultra-violet rays."
Aside possibly from the reference to sunshine records, this really is a true description of the area. For those wishing to take in the ozone-rich mountain air, the craggy edifice of Cader Idris looms large over Dolgellau enticing the serious hill walker. For a gentler walk from Dolgellau, or even a bike ride, you can follow the river Wnion and Mawddach Estuary along the old railway line. The old trackbed hugs the estuary and passes through idyllic Penmaenpool to Morfa Mawddach (once Barmouth Junction) where it meets the modern day line. The mile-long bridge to Barmouth has a parallel footpath which is a splendid, often windswept, wooden promenade from which to look down the estuary to your point of departure; Dolgellau. Featured on the BBC's "Railway Walks", presented by Julia Bradbury, this walk is a real treat and must have been one of the most scenic train rides in Wales before the line was closed in the 1960s by Dr. Beeching.
There are several old halls near Dolgellau that once belonged to wealthy families, some of whom acquired their wealth in the aforementioned "industrial smoke". One such is Penmaenuchaf Hall just few miles outside Dolgellau at Penmaenpool. Once the country retreat of the Leigh Taylors from Bolton, it's now a country house hotel set in CADW listed private grounds. If you're looking for an oasis of luxury while inhaling the pure, Celtic breezes this is the place.
www.penhall.co.uk
Penmaenuchaf Hall Hotel
Penmaenpool
Dolgellau
Gwynedd
North Wales
LL40 1YB
t: 01341 422129
(Nearest railway station: Morfa Mawddach)
A few months ago my boyfriend and I headed for a country break to Devon for a long weekend. We caught the train bright and early on a gorgeous Friday morning and before too long we were driving along the tiny country lanes in East Devon in search of our bed & breakfast. Listening to BBC Devon and watching field after field and horses and cows go by, we felt ourselves slowly being de-Londonised...
There it was our turning along a tiny dirt track, past the nearest 'village' Southleigh which consisted of a post box and village noticeboard. We passed a few farms and lovely converted barns and finally drove up the driveway to our bed & breakfast Glebe House, sitting beautifully on top of a hill. My kind of place.
Breathtaking views of the valley and surrounding farmhouses, wooden table and chairs for that night cap (or in my case peppermint tea) in the evening, and a welcoming host. I'd only just gotten there and I was already dreading leaving.
Our host, Emma, served us tea and cookies in the conservatory and then showed us to our room upstairs with views of the garden.
It was a perfect location for exploring the nearby villages, beaches and Moors. We spent a day at the beautiful beach town Lyme Regis, a day in the wild and rugged Dartmoor national park and a day in idyllic and hip town of Totnes.
I'm all about staying local, and luckily there are seemingly never ending options in this very country...
Glebe House
www.guestsatglebe.com/
Glebe House
Southleigh
Colyton
Devon EX24 6SD
Tel/Fax: 01404 871276
A large family cottage near Ventnor on the Isle of Wight. The cottage enjoys wonderful sea views and is only a short way from the sandy beach at Ventnor.
Beautiful rural holiday cottage located within a short drive of the sandy beach at Shanklin.
An unbelievably beautiful cottage with luxurious furnishing and large garden overlooking the sea at Ventnor.
The location has to come first, only 30 minutes from the Lakes but nowhere near as over run. This part of the North Lancashire coast is relatively undiscovered - an spectacular area of natural beauty - and you can have the beach all to yourself.
The Holgates park is wooded, with lots of wildlife, including rare birds that nest at the nearby RSPB site. We stayed in a very luxurious caravan that we hired, but you can take your own and there is also some space for tents. On the day that it rained, we used the truly luxurious swimming pool and spa - incredibly clean changing rooms and decent lattes in the cafe.
The village of Silverdale is a short walk away and had a great butcher and greengrocer as well as a couple of good pubs. There is also an art and pottery gallery with a good cafe attached.
The kids were happy running wild - the park is about 24 acres I think, but feels rural and safe with a great play area. We were happy outside the van with a glass of wine watching the most amazing sunset I have ever seen in my life. It takes quite something to get me to relax so quickly but this place certainly has it.
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