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Why travel all the way to southern France to see one of Europe's finest medieval castles? While not on the scale of Carcasonne, Caernarfon has plenty of excitement of its own to offer.
It retains an angular, massive, military and almost industrial character (the closest comparison I can think of are 1940s flak towers I once saw in Vienna). As its purpose was to help subjugate the last area of strong Welsh resistance to the invading Anglo-Normans and symbolise royal authority, this isn't surprising. Come to think of it, Prince Charles' investiture as Prince of Wales in the castle doesn't seem too surprising either.
Though dominating the town, the castle really comes into its own when you (literally) get inside the walls. These are thick enough to contain a labyrinthine maze of passages linking the multi-layered, multi-levelled towers. You can easily become disoriented and enjoyably lost: I'd say it's the kind of place you could scamper round for hours with the kids, but to be honest I had hours of entertainment scampering round it with Richard Hammond-esque glee as a supposedly responsible adult.
Add beautiful views across the Menai Straits and Snowdonia from the ramparts and the relatively unspoilt walled town (there's also a particularly good curry restaurant in one of the side streets yards from the castle) and you have a near-perfect day out.
www.caernarfon-castle.co.uk
Gpoogle map: tinyurl.com/36f89ys
A beautiful 15th century castle ruin which sits beside the impressive waters of Loch Awe and nestles between the magnificent mountains of Argyll and Bute. My husband and I visited on a July evening this year and were lucky enough to share the experience with no more than the sheep and swooping swallows. We were free to explore the grounds, read the
information, climb the castle towers and take in the breathtaking views at
our leisure.
Loch Awe, Argyll & Bute. Access on foot from Dalmally or boat from Loch Awe pier. Both on A85 road.
Google map: tinyurl.com/2b7obfg
Perched on top of - and carved out of - a huge lump of rock, Carreg Cennen is one of the most surprising castles there is. From the fantasy medieval walls down the passage cut in the edge of the crag into the cave below, it's like something out of a wild fantasy story. Kids will love attacking the walls and being repulsed by evil parent defenders and we can all lose ourselves in the darkness below. Spooky!
www.cadw.wales.gov.uk/default.asp?id=6&PlaceID=17
Google map: tinyurl.com/39vuc98
OS map 159: SN 668191
A majestic ruin of a once splendid castle just inside Wales. From a distance it looks surprisingly small but on closer inspection, Raglan offers a good hour's worth of exploring. There are nooks and crannys aplenty for both the kids and brave adults to seek out; a water filled moat adds to the splendour helping you put yourself in the 15th century when the local gentry spent their days walking the long gallery or enjoying the fountain in the one of the two courtyards … until it was raized to the ground during the English Civil War. And for a final spectacular, climb the steps to the top of the tallest tower to admire the views and see the castle in all its beauty. Re-enactors patrol the grounds, giving demonstrations of musket loading and firing.
Raglan, Abergavenny
+44 1443 336 000 www.cadw.wales.gov.uk/default.asp?id=6&PlaceID=113
Google map: tinyurl.com/34t65wn
Chillingham Castle in Northumberland is as haunting as it name suggests – the castle enjoys numerous ghost stories, as well as dungeons and quite a disturbing torture chamber. The castle played a key role in bloody border battles throughout medieval history. Also a private residence, the often eccentric displays of personal belongings, and home-cooked provisions of the kitchen really provide the visitor with an intimate experience of a key historic site. Landscaped gardens and tours to see truly wild cattle ensure something for everyone.
Open 2nd April - 29th October. Chillingham village near Alnwick
+44 1668 215359
A family ticket is very reasonable at £18
www.chillingham-castle.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/34843gx
Northumberland is famed for it's dramatic coastline and historic castles. One of the most spectacular is Dunstanburgh Castle, located a mile or so up the coast from the pretty fishing village of Craster. The walk follows the stunning grassy coastline north of Craster and is suitable for novice ramblers or families; with the goal of the massive double towered gatehouse always in sight. The castle is the largest in Northumberland, and dates from the 14th century. Its remains are impressive from the outside, or you can pay an entrance fee to English Heritage to go in and view them up close. Don't forget to sample the famous Craster smoked kippers before or after your adventure.
www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/dunstanburgh-castle/
Google map: tinyurl.com/3667277
This castle can easily be seen emerging from the trees on a hillside beside the M4 (junction 32). It has a fairytale appearance even when passing at speed, but entering the castle takes this feeling of enchantment further. Unlike most castles this one is relatively modern (although built on ancient foundations) and is the result of money and Victorian imagination taken to the extreme. It was built as an elaborate holiday retreat for the 3rd marquess of Bute at the end of the 19th century. Its walls are beautifully decorated with intricate paintings of many things, including Aesop's Fables in one room. The furniture and decor is wonderfully over the top and bizarre. There is also Caerphilly Castle 5 minuites drive away, with all the splendor of a decayed ancient castle but Castell Coch brings history to life in a fantastically refreshing way to adults and children alike. It is reasonably priced and also has a lovely, if small, tea room.
www.cadw.wales.gov.uk, www.castlewales.com/coch.html
02920 810101
Google map: tinyurl.com/38v9hjf
Follow signs from junction 32 of the M4
More than a castle, Rye's 13th-century Ypres Tower forms part of the citadel of this ancient town, one of the seven Cinque Ports of Kent and Sussex. It was built in 1249 under the orders of Henry III to defend England from the French who just over a hundred years later raised Rye to the ground, leaving only the fort intact.
Expect to find worn spiral stone staircases, panoramic views and horrific instruments of torture in this castle. You may try on helmets and armour, sample herbs from the medieval garden, or - for the total incarceration experience - lie on a bed in the tiny cramped prisoner's cell of one of the castle's narrow turrets. Children are kept busy with competitions or treasure hunts and outside they can clamber over canons in the Gun Garden.
As a smuggler's stronghold Rye has a colourful history, and local author John Ryan's Captain Pugwash adds humour to the stories told in the castle and museum. Although the fort remained standing when the town was looted in 1377, the church roof fell and its bells were stolen. In keeping with their fierce character, the men of Rye sailed to France, set fire to two Norman towns and recovered many of Rye's stolen treasures.
At the top of the turret I found a purring local cat sitting on a wicker chair, watching over a relief model of the naturally reclaimed coastline. Unlike other areas of Britain the sea is retreating here, exposing marshland and miles of deep shingle, England's only "desert" wilderness. If you strain your eyes from the ramparts you might just see the sea, but when it was first built the water came to the foot of the hill on which Rye is perched.
With its cobbled lanes, ancient buildings and 900 year old church, huddled together with the castle inside the citadel, Rye is an impressive and beautiful historic town.
www.ryemuseum.co.uk/
Open daily 10.30am to 5.00pm
Adults £3.00, concessions £2.50. Children free when accompanying family
Google map: tinyurl.com/3y7dhbz
The museum is open
Saturday, Sunday and Bank Holidays 10.30am to 5.00pm
Adults £2.50 Concessions £2.00
Family visits: Children free when accompanying family
Last admission 30 minutes before closing.
A joint ticket for both sites costs £5.00, Concessions £4.00.
Family visits: Children free when accompanying family.
This is a largely unknown gem, just 7 miles north of Cardiff. As well as being one of the best examples of medieval castle architecture, it's the second largest castle in the UK (after Windsor), with a leaning tower which out-leans Pisa, and the most amazing water defences – so much more than a moat, trust me. Small children will love it, and boys especially will adore the life-size working replica medieval siege engines which get fired on special days in the summer. Buy some of the famous cheese in the town after your visit, the place has seen better days and could sorely do with your custom.
Five miles north of junction 32 on the M4, in the town of Caerphilly.
www.caerphillycastle.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/34p84su
Caged between the free flowing river Mersey and an idling pleasant suburbia on the Wirral Peninsula, Eastham's Country Park offers a haunting shaded respite being the overgrown pleasure gardens of the Victorian era, Asia's' rhododendrons rampage as Autumn approaches. Visit the mossy stoned vacant bear pit or imbibe at either of two pubs hanging above the river at Eastham Ferry's medieval crossing point; from here dream down-river to the Liver Buildings, to Jung's pool of life or likewise observe and imagine the destinations of aeroplanes departing from John Lennon airport directly opposite. You can dream here and for that it is a strange and remote place indeed.
Green Lane
Wirral, Merseyside CH62 0BH
0151 327 1007
Google map: tinyurl.com/3xfac2s
There are not many family friendly attractions in the UK that allow pet dogs within their grounds, but Beeston Castle in Tarporley, Cheshire is one exception.
As a tight knit family unit, we love (to try) and incorporate our canine family member into any planned days out, but alas most things which include an entrance fee normally exclude dogs ( for good reason of course in many cases).
So it's a delight to find one which welcomes dogs (on a lead).
Beeston castle is a picturesque attraction with a real family friendly feeling.
It's super to explore on a fine day and picnics are welcome, a great addition to any family day out, and of course so much cheaper than paying to dine out.
The pretty sloping grounds often host reenactments and interactive demonstrations for the children. Along side this there are woodlands and bat caves to discover and explore.
The walk up to the castle summit is wonderful, but very steep in part, however the buggy pushers did not seem to falter!
At the top of this "Castle of Rock", the views are incredible and on a clear day no less that eight counties can be seen, from the Pennines to the Welsh mountains.
As a budding photographer, my husband was in his element and the children loved tearing around while the adults marvelled at the view.
The admission price is reasonable enough when you consider the price of some family outings, around £16 for a family of four. It's also worth noting that if you sign up to become an English Heritage member for a year, not only are many places free of charge thereafter to enter, but they will also refund the cost of the entrance fee paid on the day.
Beeston Castle, Tarporley, Cheshire, CW6 9TX
Located 11 miles SE from Chester
Local Tourist Information Tel. 01829 260464,
www.english-heritage.org.uk
Adults £5.30, children £2.70
Google map: tinyurl.com/3xczead
In terms of location, you really can't beat Bamburgh Castle. Set in a unique whinstone outcrop elevated above the sea by volcanic activity, it is one of the largest inhabited castles in England. It never fails to amaze both children and adults, with its stunning sea views of the Northumbrian coastline, atmosphere, legends, tales, ghosts and special events.
Bamburgh Castle,
Bamburgh,
Northumberland
01668 214515, bamburghcastle.com
Adult £8, child £4
Google map: tinyurl.com/345fp5d
A 15th century castle shaped like a ship on the shore of the Firth of Forth. Steep and scary ruins, rugged and rocky, perfect for clambering around with small children (really!). A small jetty projects into the river and there are fantastic views to the Forth Bridges.
Four miles northeast of Linlithgow
www.historic-scotland.gov.uk
Google map: tinyurl.com/2vv5xmv
I fully endorse Amy Jenkins recommendation of Cadbury Hill (Travel, 14/08/2010) but take a tip from a local: good food and drink is available at the bottom of the hill in South Cadbury at The Camelot (01963 440448, thecamelotpub.com), where a permanent display by Somerset County Council gives visitors a glimpse of artefacts from the hill and insight into its occupation from 4000BC to AD1000. You’ll see reconstruction drawings and paintings of the ancient landscape by Jane Brayne (Meet The Ancestors) and the original designs for the film “Arthur”. It’s a pub which gives a friendly welcome to locals and visitors alike at reasonable cost.
www.southcadbury.org.uk
01963 440448
www.thecamelotpub.com
Chapel Road, South Cadbury, Somerset, BA22 7EX
Google map: tinyurl.com/3annp42
There are not many family friendly attractions in the UK that allow pet dogs within their grounds, but Beeston Castle in Tarporley, Cheshire is one exception.
As a tight knit family unit, we love (to try) and incorporate our canine family member into any planned days out, but alas most things which include an entrance fee normally exclude dogs ( for good reason of course in many cases).
So it's a delight to find one which welcomes dogs (on a lead).
Beeston castle is a picturesque attraction with a real family friendly feeling.
It's super to explore on a fine day and picnics are welcome, a great addition to any family day out, and of course so much cheaper than paying to dine out.
The pretty sloping grounds often host reenactments and interactive demonstrations for the children. Along side this there are woodlands and bat caves to discover and explore.
The walk up to the castle summit is wonderful, but very steep in part, however the buggy pushers did not seem to falter!
At the top of this "Castle of Rock", the views are incredible and on a clear day no less that eight counties can be seen, from the Pennines to the Welsh mountains.
As a budding photographer, my husband was in his element and the children loved tearing around while the adults marvelled at the view.
The admission price is reasonable enough when you consider the price of some family outings, around £16 for a family of four. It's also worth noting that if you sign up to become an English Heritage member for a year, not only are many places free of charge thereafter to enter, but they will also refund the cost of the entrance fee paid on the day.
Beeston Castle, Tarporley, Cheshire, CW6 9TX
Located 11 miles SE from Chester
Local Tourist Information Tel. 01829 260464,
www.english-heritage.org.uk
Google map: tinyurl.com/2uqmtjq
A tiny, cheap campsite right on the beach with its own boat launch. The views are out of this world.
Fegla Fach Farm, Arthog, Gwynedd, LL39 1BZ, 01341 250442
Google map: tinyurl.com/36gqjmu
Snax Café is a real find. In an increasingly gentrified Leith, it’s brilliant to find such an unpretentious cafe serving simple, fresh and well-prepared food at attractive prices. My (all-day) veggie breakfast - fried egg, hash browns, tattie scone, beans, fried tomato and a buttered roll, all for £2.70 – was delicious. For lunch recently, I had a tasty granary roll generously over-stuffed with lettuce, tomato, onion, cucumber, sun-dried tomatoes, jalapeno peppers and grated cheddar. Everything was crisp and fresh, and it cost £1.70, which included a free can of soda or bottle of water. You can sit in (there are around 24 seats) or take your food away, and they’re open really early. The food is fresh and not greasy, and everyone working there is bright and friendly.
8 Portland Place, Edinburgh, EH6 6LA
Tel: 01315 542000
Three other branches in Edinburgh and Leith.
Google map: tinyurl.com/387c9wj
A summer only day trip starting with a ferry from John O'Groat's to Orkney, followed by a coach tour of Orkney including stops at Skara Brae, the Italian Chapel and Kirkwall. Fantastic value at £42 for the basic trip. On the way back whales were spotted and the ferry stopped so that passengers could get a good look.
www.jogferry.co.uk
John O’ Groats Ferries Limited,
The Ferry Office,
John O’ Groats,
Caithness, Scotland,
KW1 4YR
+44 1955 611353
Google map: tinyurl.com/39v93s7
Cycle down to Springfield Park for a morning cup of tea at the Springfield Marina. Then continue along the River Lea. You can follow it all the way, alongside Walthamstow and Hackney Marshes past Lea Bridge and Millfields park. There are various pubs along the way, and lovely open fields with farm animals. Cycle all the way to the Olympic Stadium - and then around it on the pedestrian path if you wish - then continue along the Hertford Canal, alongside Victoria Park and the beautiful canal path to Old Ford Lock.
Turn right again along Regent's Canal, and come out to finish at Broadway Market for a cold drink or a cup of coffee. If that's all too tiring, refresh with a dip in Hackney Fields Lido.
In perhaps the most urban borough in London, it's the most beautiful and relaxing canal-side walk/cycle ride you can imagine, and with the added bonus of a tour of the new Olympic Stadium. Makes for a brilliant day out for all. An undiscovered gem of a park as well.
Take your bikes on the train to Clapton, Stamford Hill or Stoke Newington, and go down to Springfield Park from there. Springfield Park, Spring Hill, N16.
Google map: bit.ly/c2RKDD
Glasgow has, in the Firth of Clyde, the finest hinterland of any British city. The Isle of Cumbrae is less than two hours away by train and a relaxing ferry crossing from Largs. It is a joy to cycle the 10-mile circuit of the island, perhaps pausing for an ice-cream, then relax on one of the sandy beaches with fine views of Arran or the Isle of Bute. On wet days there is an interesting aquarium to visit, run by the University of Glasgow. For the adventurous the island has the National Watersports Centre featuring all kinds of activities.
www.millport.org.uk
Google map: bit.ly/bJloer
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