While possibly uninspiring, the small town of Buellton in Santa Barbara County will nevertheless be unmissable to fans of the wine nerd film ‘Sideways’. From just beyond the windmill of Days Inn (the guy’s hotel in the film) take Avenue of the Flags which leads to the Santa Rosa Road. This idyllic winding road follows the Santa Ynez River through the Santa Rita Hills AVA (American Viticultural Area). Stop off at legendary pinot producer Sanford to visit their recently opened mission-style tasting room sited in the middle of their historical vineyards. Don’t miss the Dominio del Falcon reserve pinot noir. Back in Buellton book a table in advance at the Hitching Post II for unbeatable steaks. Maya won’t be there, but open a bottle of ‘Highliner’ in her memory (the local wine made by Frank Ostini, the restaurant owner and head chef).

Sanford Winery
5010 Santa Rosa Road
Lompoc CA 93436
Tel (805) 735 5900
www.sanfordwinery.com.

Hitching Post II
P.O. Box 2009
406 East Highway 246
Buellton CA 93427
Tel (805) 688 0676
www.hitchingpost2.com

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It is said that New Yorkers are a driven lot, but a large percentage of us are driven because we do not know how to drive. There is no need in this city to operate a car - there is excellent public transport at half the price of London. And yet New Yorkers are among the best-travelled people in the world. Sometimes we hire a car and driver, but our independent and sociable natures often inspire us to do what the locals do.

I am a regular visitor to Los Angeles and have figured out how to enjoy much of the area without a car. For a first-time or repeat visitor, my advice is to base yourself in Santa Monica. It has much of the iconic LA topography: sunsets on the Pacific Ocean; a sandy beach full of people who are in much too good condition; wandering “street” characters of every stripe; the occasional movie star sighting; one of the best outdoor food markets in America; superb restaurants; and, above all, the sense that this could not be anywhere else in the world but the LA we envision. All that is missing is Disneyland and that can be reached if one must.

My hotel of choice is the Georgian. It dates back to the 1930s and was preferred by more than a few movie stars for a romantic getaway. The building retains its elegant old bones but has been smartly updated. There are delicious breakfasts based on local ingredients, bracing ocean air, and those sunsets. The elegant Merigot hotel is another choice and its Cezanne restaurant offers many dishes based on local ingredients. I love the fish dishes there. Within three blocks of the Georgian Hotel are at least 50 restaurants, cinemas with 12 screens showing the latest hits and important independent films, and even a pub popular with British ex-pats. It is right across the street from the ocean and I would try to get in a swim every day.

You can rent a bicycle and cover a lot of local terrain. Santa Monica also has a superb local bus system as well as limited-stop long distance buses that go to Beverly Hills and downtown LA. Selective use of taxis can take you places where buses do not reach. The two I would recommend are both part of the J. Paul Getty Museum (www.getty.edu/museum), for which reservations are required to attend. The Getty Villa, straight up the Pacific Coast Highway, holds a superb collection of Greco-Roman art in an idyllic setting. It is a short trip from the Georgian Hotel. A bit further, and probably the most expensive transport (about $40) you will incur, is the Getty Museum, an omnium gatherum of paintings, sculpture, drawings and photographs. The Getty has one of the best educational initiatives of any museum in America. It also has good eating facilities, so I tend to make the visit a full day.

And what do I do if I need or want to go further afield? New Yorkers are resourceful and also friendly. I tend to befriend residents of LA, almost all of whom own a car and are willing to give me a lift. In exchange, I invite them for drinks on the terrace of the Georgian just in time for sunset over the Pacific.

Georgian Hotel: 1415 Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica, CA 90401 Tel: 1-310/395-9945 Fax: 1-310/451-3374

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Melrose Avenue is one of LA's longest and most celebrated shopping streets, home to designer boutiques, hip restaurants, street wear, thrift stores... you name it. It's also a great place to find bargains. Near to some of America's most affluent and fashion concious communities, the second hand vintage shops on Melrose are a cut above your average thrift store. It's not hard to spot designer jeans, couture dresses and other items, ranging from almost new to decades-old classics, and all at a fraction of the original price. Many of the independent boutiques in the area also sell brilliant, unique pieces for prices that are extremely reasonable for what you are getting. The Marc by Marc Jacobs boutique at Melrose & La Cienega is also surprisingly affordable.

Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles (the best section, retail wise, is in Hollywood and West Hollywood, between La Cienega & La Brea)

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If your trip to the US and Canada is for several months, investigate the possibility of buying a used vehicle and then re-selling prior to returning home. The cost of insurance will be much lower, and if you buy at a reasonable price, the value of the vehicle at the end of the trip will hopefully not have dropped too much. I have done this with a motorhome, and saved a small fortune.

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"I've been to legendary L.A. sushi restaurant] Geisha House, and this is better," my friend told me as we entered the unassuming Gugu Sushi in L.A.'s South Bay. I haven't been to Geisha House, but I find it hard to imagine the possibility of better sushi, except perhaps in Japan.

Gug Sushi isn't a place you come to flash the cash (unlike much of L.A.) or even for the atmosphere: its sole raison d'etre is the fantastic food. The menu offers a bewildering variety of different roll combinations, so it was only fair that we tasted quite a few. The names of most now escape me, though all were delectable, however, the eponymous Gugu roll and one which prominently featured unagi (eel) stick in my mind.

It may be a bit of a trek from the more popular tourist areas of the city, but for sushi fans it is definitely worth it, and the prices are extremely reasonable.

Gu Gu Sushi & Roll, 1121 Aviation Boulevard, Hermosa Beach, Los Angeles CA 90254

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It's tough to beat driving up the Pacific Coast highway from Los Angeles to San Francisco. Stop in Big Sur on the way and glory in the scenery. Otherwise, if you want to stay on the Eastern edge, it's worth a trip down at least part of the Blue Ridge parkway. The actual parkway has a 30 mph speed limit (if I remember correctly), so it gives you time to take it easy and enjoy your classic car!

One thing I would definitely recommend is the book (and website) Roadfood by Jane and Michael Stern. They're a husband and wife team who specialise in writing about food and travel. They also file regular reports for the radio show 'The Splendid Table' broadcast by Los Angeles-based public radio station KCRW (which you can podcast from kcrw.com). They're constantly in search of wonderful holes-in-the-wall, diners, shacks or anywhere else that serves good American "classics" - from clam chowder to hot dogs to meatloaf to pecan pie, and everything in-between. The book is organised geographically, so wherever you end up driving, it's likely that they'll have covered the area and will offer some good choices.

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Seriously cool boutique-style hostel in Los Angeles that’s got all the modern facilities but a low price. Worth staying at just for the bright colours and the weird chairs that look like giant hands…

All the main attractions, from the theatres to Chinatown are easily reached from here too!

636 S Main Street
www.hostelbookers.com/hostels/usa/los-angeles/32329/

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Cool place with lively crowds that has an impressive international list of drinks and happy hours where it's as little as $4 a drink – refreshing in a pricey town.
Head down weekdays between 4.30pm-6pm to take advantage of the discounts…

3847 Main Street, Culver City

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Catch a documentary or an arty film in the city which is famous for the industry – and in a movie theatre with more than a bit of history itself. It hosted the first Hollywood premiere in 1922 and although they’ve moved on to bigger premises since, the newly restored interior drips with movie glam.

Hollywood Boulevard

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Designer discount shop that’s full of treasures that start around $10! This is LA after all – home of the glamorous and the rich – and it seems tons of ex-celeb frocks and red carpet outfits turn up here at very reduced prices…

1116 Wilshire Boulevard

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Lovely restaurant with red-leather booths and old-fashioned American charm in downtown LA.
The steaks are as awesome as the atmosphere, coming in at a reasonable $25 with sides in the evening but even cheaper at lunch with the specials.

Try the cocktails too if you have any cash left in the budget!

West 8th Street

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10 best bars in LA and no Formosa? You've gotta be kidding! Elvis once tipped a waitress here with a Buick. Great bar, great drinks, great history and great margueritas.

Santa Monica & Formosa
www.worldsbestbars.com/public/venue_listing.jsp?categoryId=29&currentVenueId=353

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Los Feliz is a great little neighborhood in north-east Los Angeles, near Griffith Park (I'm a little biased since I live there...). Anytime but mid-July through August are the best times to go - it can get pretty hot some days during those months. Check out Hillhurst north of Franklin, and Vermont north of Hollywood. Lots of great restaurants, bars and hang-outs (Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf on Hillhurst has a great patio with firepit). Griffith Park is also nearby, with plenty of great hiking trails, pony rides for the kids, picnic areas, etc.

East of Western, north of Franklin, West of Riverside drive, south of Griffith Park. Get there from the west side by taking the 10 east, 110 North, 5 North, get off at Los Feliz Blvd and head west. Griffith Park will be to your right as you drive down Los Feliz Blvd.

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These tours are often run from backpackers'. They tour the conventional destinations, the Hollywood sign, Venice beach etc but they take you to Watts Towers, past the Viper Room, Compton and the more notorious locations. They also drive by celebrity houses. All done in a day so for those on a tight schedule, great!

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It is a huge mall just outside LA to the north. Where all the locals go shopping and all the usual suspects can be found there, as well as great eating options. It is the sort of place you imagine when you think of an American mall - much better than the (outside) Grove though, admittedly, a drive away.

On the way back to LA you can cut left and drive back down Mulholland Drive as well.

www.westfield.com/topanga/index.html

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We recently hired a car with Alamo at LAX and plumped through prebooking for the smallest and cheapest. On arrival they wanted us to trade up to a bigger car (apparently a Focus not being a family car).

When we got outside to choose a car there were only huge cars anyway, so there's no point in paying for the upgrade. There were also lots of Prius sitting there as midsize cars but, because the European families were scared of the unknown, went unpicked. Read up on them before you go if you want a trendy midsize car.

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Scenic helicopter tours around LA to see all the best attractions by air. Great personalised service, friendly and helpful pilots, and great prices.

www.los-angeles-helicopter-tours.com

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When at IN-N-OUT - don't forget to look for the Biblical references on your cups and remember The Dude.

Fatburger is almost as cheap as the incredible IN-N-OUT Burger with more of a diner feel and no Bible verses

Charcoal - when you want upscale - new but gaining fans - 6372 W Sunset Boulevard, LA, CA 90028

The Oinkster - worth the drive to Eagle Rock - you don't really need a reason to visit ER, just do it before it gets too trendy.

And don't forget a stroll down Hollywood Boulevard while you're out.

fatburger.com/home/
www.theoinkster.com/
traveller.uncommontraveller.com/2007/08/01/hollywood-meets-dollywood.aspx

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Los Angeles is great for vintage/retro clothing, and these two stores, right across the road from each other in Venice Beach, are definitely worth a visit. Aaardvark has plenty of retro T-shirts, shirts and suits, while Gotta Have it has more dresses, vintage knitwear and accessories.

Gotta Have It
1516 Pacific Ave.
Venice, CA 90291
Aaardvark's Vintage Clothing
85 Market St.
Venice, CA 90291

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A privately-owned, car-free island 21 miles off the coast of Long Beach. A haven for sailors, you can hire bikes and kayaks, gamble in the casino, take one of the guided bus tours of the interior or just sit in one of the cute cafes or on one of the small but pretty beaches. The pace of life here is roughly 50 times slower than that of the mainland - a reviving day trip.

www.catalina.com

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