It is said that New Yorkers are a driven lot, but a large percentage of us are driven because we do not know how to drive. There is no need in this city to operate a car - there is excellent public transport at half the price of London. And yet New Yorkers are among the best-travelled people in the world. Sometimes we hire a car and driver, but our independent and sociable natures often inspire us to do what the locals do.

I am a regular visitor to Los Angeles and have figured out how to enjoy much of the area without a car. For a first-time or repeat visitor, my advice is to base yourself in Santa Monica. It has much of the iconic LA topography: sunsets on the Pacific Ocean; a sandy beach full of people who are in much too good condition; wandering “street” characters of every stripe; the occasional movie star sighting; one of the best outdoor food markets in America; superb restaurants; and, above all, the sense that this could not be anywhere else in the world but the LA we envision. All that is missing is Disneyland and that can be reached if one must.

My hotel of choice is the Georgian. It dates back to the 1930s and was preferred by more than a few movie stars for a romantic getaway. The building retains its elegant old bones but has been smartly updated. There are delicious breakfasts based on local ingredients, bracing ocean air, and those sunsets. The elegant Merigot hotel is another choice and its Cezanne restaurant offers many dishes based on local ingredients. I love the fish dishes there. Within three blocks of the Georgian Hotel are at least 50 restaurants, cinemas with 12 screens showing the latest hits and important independent films, and even a pub popular with British ex-pats. It is right across the street from the ocean and I would try to get in a swim every day.

You can rent a bicycle and cover a lot of local terrain. Santa Monica also has a superb local bus system as well as limited-stop long distance buses that go to Beverly Hills and downtown LA. Selective use of taxis can take you places where buses do not reach. The two I would recommend are both part of the J. Paul Getty Museum (www.getty.edu/museum), for which reservations are required to attend. The Getty Villa, straight up the Pacific Coast Highway, holds a superb collection of Greco-Roman art in an idyllic setting. It is a short trip from the Georgian Hotel. A bit further, and probably the most expensive transport (about $40) you will incur, is the Getty Museum, an omnium gatherum of paintings, sculpture, drawings and photographs. The Getty has one of the best educational initiatives of any museum in America. It also has good eating facilities, so I tend to make the visit a full day.

And what do I do if I need or want to go further afield? New Yorkers are resourceful and also friendly. I tend to befriend residents of LA, almost all of whom own a car and are willing to give me a lift. In exchange, I invite them for drinks on the terrace of the Georgian just in time for sunset over the Pacific.

Georgian Hotel: 1415 Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica, CA 90401 Tel: 1-310/395-9945 Fax: 1-310/451-3374

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"I've been to legendary L.A. sushi restaurant] Geisha House, and this is better," my friend told me as we entered the unassuming Gugu Sushi in L.A.'s South Bay. I haven't been to Geisha House, but I find it hard to imagine the possibility of better sushi, except perhaps in Japan.

Gug Sushi isn't a place you come to flash the cash (unlike much of L.A.) or even for the atmosphere: its sole raison d'etre is the fantastic food. The menu offers a bewildering variety of different roll combinations, so it was only fair that we tasted quite a few. The names of most now escape me, though all were delectable, however, the eponymous Gugu roll and one which prominently featured unagi (eel) stick in my mind.

It may be a bit of a trek from the more popular tourist areas of the city, but for sushi fans it is definitely worth it, and the prices are extremely reasonable.

Gu Gu Sushi & Roll, 1121 Aviation Boulevard, Hermosa Beach, Los Angeles CA 90254

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Lovely restaurant with red-leather booths and old-fashioned American charm in downtown LA.
The steaks are as awesome as the atmosphere, coming in at a reasonable $25 with sides in the evening but even cheaper at lunch with the specials.

Try the cocktails too if you have any cash left in the budget!

West 8th Street

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Take a drive down to Manhattan Beach. Enjoy the pier and beach, but do not miss out on this fantastic restaurant. It's clean, inexpensive, friendly, with utterly delicious food. They have many tasty dishes suitable for vegetarians (but not vegans), as well as the standard Mexican fare very well prepared. I lived in L.A. for many years and ate there regularly.

1005 Manhattan Avenue, Manhattan Beach, CA

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Do not be deceived by it's diner-esque front, the cuisine here is of the very highest calibre. I lived in Hermosa Beach for over a year and ate all over Los Angeles only to find this: by far the best restaurant I went to in LA; in my last week. Mains are $12-$17, but this is a snip for the quality of food and service and for the extremely pleasant atmosphere.

1501 Hermosa Ave, Hermosa Beach
Tel: 310 376 2084

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An unassuming canopy on west 3rd hides a dimly lit, but atmospheric bar. Serves over 270 types of tequila, great Margarita's and all else until late to a hippish, relaxed LA crowd. Has chic mexican wrestling decor, once your eyes have adjusted to the nice low light. Yum.

8138 W 3rd Street, Hollywood CA
(323) 852-1552

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A fabulous Mexican restaurant just off Santa Monica Boulevard. Mariachi waiters and fantastic (and reasonably priced) food. Recommended to us by a Swedish woman who ran a clog shop on La Cienega....

1113 N.Harper Ave
Tel: 213 654 1746

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This Japanese restaurant perched high above Hollywood Blvd offers spectacular views of the entire LA basin from the ocean to downtown and the mountains.

Go there for drinks before dinner somewhere else (the restaurant is okay, but overpriced and there are far better Japanese restaurants). If you've never been to LA before, Yamashiro's view will give you a sense of where everything is in the sprawling megalopolis. Spectacular.

1999 N. Sycamore Ave., Hollywood, CA 90068 (off Franklin Ave. - v. well sign posted). Phone: 323-466-5125

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