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    Walter De Maria's Lightning Fields

    Posted by silya 22 March 2009

    My most memorable road trip was an art pilgrimage from Walter De Maria's Lightning Fields in New Mexico to Marfa, Texas, home of the Chinati Foundation founded by Donald Judd. It is not easy to get to Quemado, New Mexico, the closest point to fly in and rent a car is Flagstaff, Arizona, or alternately Albuqueque, NM. Quemado is roughly situated midway between these two cities slightly south. We instead chose Las Vegas for the cheap flight which adds about 5 extra hours to the drive. If you have time to spare you may want to stay the first night in La Posada Hotel in Winslow, Az, less than 2 hours east of Flagstaff on Hwy180 by the area known as the Painted Desert. It is billed as "The Last Great Railroad Hotel", from the days of the great Santa Fe trains. It's majesty doesn't disappoint and you can also say you were on a section of the famous Route 66. The next day continue east on Hwy 180E changing to Hwy 601E at St. John's, Az until you reach Quemado, NM, from where you will escorted to the Fields. This drive should be a leisurely 4-5 hours. The timing of your trip will hinge on the Lightning Fields as it is only open May 1st-October 31st, reserved through the Dia Foundation. You stay on site for 24 hours in an original homesteaders cabin from the early 1900's situated at the edge of a field in which De Maria has installed 400 stainless steel poles in a grid measuring 1 mile by 1 kilometer. This region of New Mexico has a high proportion of lightning but it is not necessary to still have an enriching, full experience without it (we only saw lightning in surrounding hills). If possible, walk around the field at varying times of the day, even in the darkness of night. Continue east on Hwy 60, then S. on Hwy 25 another 4-5 hours, and stay overnight in Truth or Consequences-which based it's name from a popular 50's radio show-, relaxing in one of the many natural hot springs. The one we stayed in, though full of character and providing us with amusing anecdotes, is not one we would necessarily recommend, but there are many to choose from. Continue on Hwy 25S connecting to Hwy 10SE at El Paso, then Hwy 90S at Van Horne until you reach Marfa, give yourself about 6 hours for this drive. In Marfa stay at the Hotel Paisano, which was home base for cast and crew of the movie Giant and has rooms named after it's stars; James Dean, Elizabeth Taylor and Rock Hudson. A nice place to stay even without the cheesy celebrity draw. The Chinati Foundation in Marfa houses many of Judd's works, but the centerpiece is his sublime 100 Untitled Works in two former artillery sheds. Artists which include Carl Andre, Dan Flavin, John Chamberlain, Ilya Kabakov and Richard Long, were invited by Judd to conceive and install their work for these specifics spaces which imbue them with a pureness. This is a rough guideline for a trip that we did from Las Vegas and back in 6 days. Depending on time there are many natural points of interest-too numerous to mention- you can incorporate into the trip, if you are adventurous and a true art junkie you can also try to get a better view of James Turrell's still under construction, Roden Crater, NE of Flagstaff, but be warned, visitors are not welcome and you may encounter some unpleasant surprises. The natural beauty of the land in the Southwest, bracketed by some of the most spectacular,thoughtful, and moving contemporary art makes this a venerable feast for those who have been starved by the cynical art market of late.

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