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Since I jacked in the rat race and headed east for a life on the Big Blue, I haven't been back. But Jamie and I have a dream of sailing 'Esper' into the great melting-pot one day...
New York, New York, so good they named it twice,
New York, New York, all the scandal and the vice, I love it!
Gerard Kenny, 1978.
I’m not so sure about the vice, but I love a bit of scandal and news, so what better way to start the day than with the New York Times? Sitting in one of NY’s many diners, while knocking back endless cups of coffee and wolfing down a real Big Apple breakfast, is a pretty good way to soak up the city morning atmosphere.
It does not matter what interests you, New York has it all. There are a million things to do and see, from art to sport, from shopping to parks and from Broadway to boat tours, it is impossible to be bored.
I started my affair with New York in 1972 when I visited the city for the first time at the tender age of fourteen. Flying from London on my own, too scared to disturb the passenger next to me – or to use the lavatory – I remained in my seat for the whole journey. Listening to Tony Blackburn through crackly headphones, on a continuous one-hour loop, must surely earn me some kind of medal? Emerging surprisingly unscathed from the experience of hearing the iconic disk jockey’s cheesy jokes eight times, I was met at the airport by the American family I would be staying with for a month.
It was the time of flower power and the hippy generation, a movement I embraced with open arms, marvelling at the brave new world of shopping malls. I bought LPs by Carole King, Harry Nilsson, and Alice Cooper, covered myself in cheap jewellery, slavered on the patchouli or musk perfume, and squeezed my feet into cuban heeled cowboy boots. I went to the Empire State Building – just pipped at the post as the world’s highest building by the recently built World Trade Centre. I saw the Rockerfeller Center, Central Park and the Statue of Liberty, but it was Saks 5th Avenue which impressed me most. Fab, all those bright, blinking, winking things.
Most amazingly of all during that trip I was somehow smuggled into a cinema to see the X rated “The Godfather”. Life did not get much hipper or happier.
Since my first glimpse of the metropolitan heaven that is New York I have been back often, sometimes on holiday and sometimes on business, but always with pleasure and affection. It has changed over the years, with even places like Harlem getting a makeover and becoming gentrified – this once ‘no-go’ area now offers Harlem Heritage Tours.
If you've never been before I would try a whistle stop tour of the major tourist sights – they are all worth seeing – but just strolling around Manhattan gives a great flavour of the place that spawned ‘Fame’, ‘Friends’ and countless Woody Allen flicks. Catch a Broadway show and see a Hollywood star in the flesh, if you are lucky, but ‘Off Broadway’ or even in one of the other boroughs – Queens, Brooklyn, The Bronx or Staten Island – there are performances most nights.
NY never ceases to thrill and to throw up something new. The Frick Collection and Museum of Modern Art are always worth visiting for a culture fix. For aspirational shopping it is hard to beat Barneys, and the boutiques around SoHo are full of gorgeous clothes and to-die-for trinkets.
There is nothing quite like waking up in the city that never sleeps and I haven’t even mentioned the bars...
For more tales have a look at www.lizcleere.com
East of San Francisco, north of Mexico, south of Canada and west of Ireland.
People argue all the time about which cupcakes are the best in NYC. Let me settle it: Buttercup Bake Shop. It used to have locations on the East and West sides, but sadly, only one remains. You'll have to venture to 973 2nd Avenue (between 51st and 52nd Streets). If you're not into cupcakes, you can also order banana pudding, cake slices, or muffins.
buttercupbakeshop.com/
973 2nd Avenue (Between 51st and 52nd Streets)
New York, NY 10022
+1212 350 4144
Google map: bit.ly/qARNOu
Summertime and finding gelato is easy. But picking a flavor or two from many delicious options isn't. A new gelato shop called Amorino at 60 University Place (between 10th and 11th) serves gelato in a chrysanthemum shape. It's not only aesthetically pleasing -- it allows you to sample up to 22 flavors in one cone. The individual petals keep flavors from mixing. Amorino just opened, so be ready for lines. It's open every day from 11 to midnight.
60 University Pl, (between 10th St & 11th St)
Manhattan, NY 10003
+1(212) 253-5599
Google map: bit.ly/mGR6MQ
Bright yellow waffle truck that wanders around Brooklyn bringing joy to people's lives.
My personal favourite is a Liege waffle with speculoos cookie spread.
www.wafelsanddinges.com/location.html
+18664297329
Bar on Houston St in New York. A really nice little bar with a great atmosphere. Make sure you go up the stairs and not to the bar below, which is a completely different place! We went in happy hour (around 6pm-8pm I think), which was cheap cocktails and 2-4-1 on draught beers (and good ones at that - try the Brooklyn white or pilsner). The best thing was that here Happy Hour stipulates that you MUST have two drinks each to benefit - brilliant, more beer! Also it's just down the road from Katz's deli so perfect for pre/post sandwich drinking. They also had cheap tacos on that night, which also looked pretty good, and they seemed to have various different food and drinks offers on each night of the week.
www.nolitahouse.com/
47 E Houston St
A deli serving a range of Kosher (non meat) food, including freshly baked bagels and other breads, traditional fillings, fried fish, pizza, salads, knishes and cakes. A small, very friendly, welcoming neighbourhood deli with generous portions at very reasonable prices and a varied clientele. An ideal breakfast spot.
393 Amsterdam Ave at West 79th, New York, NY 10024.
Phone:(212) 496-9400.
Nearest subway: 79th Street
URL: www.bagelsandco.com
I used the Stage Deli in Murray Hill, during our trip to NYC in January.
It served excellent breakfasts with a full choice of ingredients, endless mugs of coffee or tea. The service was good and everything cooked exactly how you wanted it - served with a smile and a 'have a nice day.' All for around $5. Great choice.
B118 East 40 street
The Amish Market located in Hell's Kitchen is a fantastic deli that I stumbled across while window shopping at every single restaurant along 9th ave.
This store is incredibly clean and jam packed full of delicious looking, perfectly placed different types of food, from corner to corner and from ground to ceiling.
I visited it at around 10pm, and it was still glistening as if hadn't been touched all day, but even then, it still had a fair few customers.
Having spent the last seven months in NYC, it's great to know there is somewhere you can pick up some home comforts such as Green & Blacks as well as an assortment of fresh olives and sushi.
Neighborhoods: Manhattan/Hell's Kitchen, Manhattan/Theater District
731 9th Ave(between 49th St & 50th St)
New York, NY 10019
Nearest Transit:
50th St-8th Ave (C, E)
50th St-Broadway (1)
49th St-7th Ave (N, R, W)
The portions are gargantuan, the service crackles with New York attitude and there's a sign over the table where Meg Ryan faked an orgasm in 'When Harry met Sally'. 'Hey! What's not to like?'
www.nothingtoseehere.net/2007/09/katzs_delicatessen_new_york_ci_1.html
205 East Houston Street Manhattan Island New York NY1002 on the corner of Ludlow Street. Nearest station 2 Ave
On a recent trip to New York, me and my equally greedy chum decided to do a glutton’s tour of famous Delis.
We stayed in the Times Square New Hostel so were a hop, skip and a jump from the 7th Avenue Delis – Katz, Carnegie and The Stage. Whilst the other two get a loud fanfare in travel guides for their juicy pastrami and stick-to-your-ribs cheesecake, I thought the Stage outshone them all for the quintessential New York experience – everything there was loud, brash, and super-sized.
The menu reads like a roll-call of deli classics – with Matzos Ball soup, triple-decker Pastrami and corned-beef sandwiches and platters of smoked fish piled so high you won’t be able to eat for days.
Of course most people come to The Stage for its star-wattage – in the heart of the theatre district, you’ll probably be served by Broadway’s next big star, and most of the items on the menu are listed as celebrity specials, so you can eat like Adam Sandler or Aretha Franklin.
Aside from the name-dropping, The Stage’s staples are truly mouthwatering– the hot Beef Brisket, the Cheese Blintzes (calorific pancakes packed with cheese and sour cream) and Knishes (a special Yiddish snack made from sticky potato and dough) took us several blocks to walk off afterwards!
834 7th Ave, between 53rd and 54th St, New York, NY 10019
www.hostelbookers.com/hostels/usa/new-york-city/43131/
If you've eaten at any point in the previous fortnight before visiting Carnegie then you'll be too full up for this place. I ordered a pastrami sandwich, I got a mountain of beef on rye. In other words this deli is everything you think a typical NYC deli should be - loud, colourful and full of characters.
854 Seventh Avenue, at 55th Street, 10019 NYC
Phone:(800) 334-5606 info@carnegiedelistore.com
Less deli, more full-blown food emporium, Zabar's is perfect to get supplies for picnics in nearby Central Park. The choice and quality are staggering. If you happen to be staying in the Upper West Side, the breakfasts are great, too.
2245 Broadway (at 80th Street) New York, NY 10024 / www.zabars.com
It may be on most tourist itineraries, but Katz's Deli is deeply rooted in New York delidom. It’s all there – old-time locals, surly waiters and most importantly, delicious sandwiches full to bursting with juicy meat. Not to be missed.
205 East Houston, NYC 10002 (on the corner of Houston & Ludlow St) / www.katzdeli.com
This fantastic deli provides for the locals of the desirable Upper East Side area. It's off the main tourist trail but easily accessible.
It stocks a massive array of fresh fruit and veg, delicious sandwiches and patisserie - great for a picnic in Central Park, as well as a range of delicacies suitably for anything from a light snack to a dinner party.
Also on sale, an irresistible range of flavoured coffees to stock up on before heading home.
431 E 91st St
New York, NY 10128
(212) 987-0885
From the east side, walk down E91st street westbound. After a few yards, it's on the right, a little way after "Timmys".
www.elizabar.com/zabar/
open 24-hours, has a large choice on the menu... great sandwiches and not as pricey as many other places in NY and not a lot of tourists so its not too packed.
548 3rd Ave New York, NY 10016
6 train to 33rd st and Park Ave
More of a diner than deli - but it serves the best breakfast this side of town. Good enough for the local cops! It's like walking into your typical New York movie "classic diner". With great service and a full menu - it's the perfect place to start the day
614 9th Avenue (between 43rd and 44th)
Tel: 212 582 7661
Of all the delis in New York, Katz's is the quintessential deli to which all others are measured and is a must on a visit to the Big Apple.
Busy, bustling, basic and brilliant. Katz's has been serving New Yorkers since 1888 and the quality of the pastrami on rye has to be eaten to be believed. You also have the choice of sweet, sour, or sweet and sour pickled gherkins to accompany your sandwich.
Be warned, for $14.95 you get an enormous sandwich so my tip is that it'll be more economical to share a one rather than your party all buying one each which you may have trouble finishing.
The premises is also licensed and you can wash down your food with a Samuel Adams beer.
Katz's is open until 3am on a Friday and Saturday night so you can even go there after you've been out and need some late night sustenance.
Worth avoiding on a Sunday morning when the queue can go out the door. It's also only a five minute walk from the nearest subway station.
Address: 205 E. HOUSTON STREET NYC 10002.
Phone: 1-212-254-2246
Subway: Second Avenue (lines F and V).
Web-site:www.katzdeli.com/
Katz deli is a New York institution, much visited and loved by locals, celebrities and presidents alike. Try and get your mouth around the incredible pastrami on rye, matzoh ball soup is fabulous, Knisch, egg cream .... all lovely stuff. Place itself looks like it hasn't changed in a hundred years. It is vibrant, lively and every member of staff is a character.
205 East Houston Street. www.katzdeli.com/
Katz deli on New York's lower east side has been serving a slice of real New York since 1888. On our first trip to this city we went on a search for somewhere that captured the essence of New York people. Taking a bus ride to 205 East Houston street we found it. Greeted by our waitress (stern, mature, lady complete with pinny, red lipstick and New York drawl) took us to our table and on asking for a burger, swifty told us that we were here for a pastrami sandwich and nothing else! We did not argue. I could have stayed for hours listening to the banter and looking at the celebrity galleries hanging on the wall, I did refrain from acting out that famous scene from 'When Harry Meet Sally' (filmed here) so not to embarres my husband. Go, sit, an soak up the atmosphere and feel part of this amazing city.
205 E Houston St, New York, NY, United States - (212) 254-2246
katzdeli.com
Head to Russ & Daughters (179 E. Houston St) for a true taste of New York. This historical deli, which specialises in bagels, cream cheese, caviar, smoked salmon and pickled herring, was opened on the Lower East Side by Jewish immigrants 95 years ago and it’s been in the Russ family ever since. It’s a downtown institution with the feel of a friendly, family-run, neighbourhood deli.
Be sure to try the Schmear (a made on site bagel with a choice of cream cheeses – I recommend the chive), for around $2.50, or the Classic (smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel – voted the best bagel in NYC by New York Magazine, and deservedly so), which is around $8-$9 and wash them down with deli favourites – a cup of cwawffee, a New York egg cream or a Dr Brown’s soda.
179 East Houston Street, New York, NY 10002
T (212) 475.4880
www.russanddaughters.com
Is this your business?Search Been there
