Hopelessly lost in San Luis Obispo, we call the Inn. "How do we find you?"
"You need to get on the 1 South and exit at the junction with the 227" comes the answer. The phone goes dead.
"And then what?"
Finding the 1 South is easy enough. The 227 exit road curls us slowly around 180 degrees and into a night sky lit garishly pink by a huge sign that instantly dwarfs us. "MADONNA INN" it screams.
And without a doubt, this is one of the kitschiest of US kitsch examples. Built in the mid 20th century, it's story goes something like this. At the time a deserty rocky outcrop in the middle of nowhere and bereft of any decent accommodation, a couple hit on the idea of building a motel incorporating those pesky rocks into its construction (no doubt cheaper than moving them away.) When it came to deciding on room decoration however, they couldn't agree on what to do. So in the pursuit of marital harmony, the couple hit on another idea. They would each be allocated rooms to decorate as they wished.

And from this was borne the 100 plus room tourist destination that this Inn has become. Each themed room is uniquely - indeed, often bizarrely - different. We stayed in the "Caveman". Described by the Inn as a "...rustic den of solid rock", we slept surrounded by tigers and showered in a cave under a rushing rock waterfall. Or something like that ...

The on-site restaurant is an assault on the senses and yet a strangely comforting nostalgic trip back in time to the 1950/60s. Huge pink leather booths, pink tablecloths, pink carpets and gilded gold chandeliers and lights wrestle for your attention with plants and a childlike doll with rosy pink cheeks that rocks eerily backwards and forwards above you on a swing hanging from the ceiling. Old time music plays on weekends, as aging couples - dressed in vintage as if for a Saturday night school dance - jive on a dance floor behind you, seemingly blissfully unaware that they are no longer teenage childhood sweethearts. Huge slices of multi-layer cream cakes (including Black Forrest available with or without the cherries?!) piled high with colourfully decorated frostings accompanied by an ice cream soda complete your step back in time.

Then there's the similarly decorated on-site bar, coffee shop, bakery, souvenir shop...

It's quirky and kitsch and odd and very probably not the best value for money, but it's fun nevertheless. A Californian institution that's worth a detour if you're in the area.

100 Madonna Road, San Luis Obispo, CA 93405. www.madonnainn.com
+1 (800) 543-9666
Google map: bit.ly/djXYUs

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Without a doubt a destination hotel, the Madonna Inn embodies the glorious wackiness of California like no other, but does so with immense style and heart. Even if you're just passing through, take the time to pull off route 101 to gaze in awe at the ornate (and very pink) dining room (be sure to marvel at the pink sugar) and be impressed by the waterfall in the gents' toilets upstairs (ladies - knock and peep!). If you do stay you just have to decide which of the 110 individually and imaginately themed rooms you want - Yosemite Rock, Captain's Bridge, Paris Violets, Caveman. One night will not be enough!

www.madonnainn.com
100 Madonna Road, San Luis Obispo, CA 93405
Reservations Phone: +1 (800) 543-9666
General Information Phone: +1 (805) 543-3000
Google map: bit.ly/cDlI0m

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Truly scary palace of kitsch - bright pink sparkly lobby, themed rooms and a waterfall in the men's toilets. Definitely worth a stop for a drink even if you can't face staying here!

100 Madonna Road
San Luis Obispo, CA 93405
+1 (805) 543-3000
www.madonnainn.com
Google map: bit.ly/bVuJ1S

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