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For a fun atmosphere, decent food, and flirty Italian waiters, it's hard to beat Steps of Rome Trattoria. This is a great little place in San Francisco's acclaimed North Beach district, which is arguably one of the most popular areas in SF for dining. Also, right next door is the original Steps of Rome Caffe - the Trattoria's "older sister," if you will. Atmosphere here is a little more refined and quieter than the Trattoria. The food is also more expensive, but it's good.
(Tip: The biggest downside to North Beach is that parking is even worse here than most other SF regions - in other words, it's pretty close to nonexistent. Spring for a parking lot, or take public transportation. If you do find a lot, don't lose your ticket! I did that once and ended up paying over $30 to get my car out of the lot. Boo!)
362 Columbus Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94133;
tel: 415-986-6480
open: 5pm-10:30 weekdays and 5pm-11pm weekends
www.stepsofrome.com/trattoria;
For caffe details see www.stepsofrome.com/caffe
In Japantown, this is on a par with the spas in Budapest (high praise). Sauna, steamroom, plunge pool, large jacuzzi, amazing massages... Spend a couple of hours utterly detoxing then walk out and binge on sushi, so feeling even more healthy. Has women-only and men-only days. Beautiful decor, very calming. If a friend's going to San Fran, buy them a gift token.
www.kabukisprings.com
1750 Geary blvd. (@Fillmore)
San Francisco, CA 94115
Tel: 415 922 6000
Fax: 415 922 6005
Open daily 10am - 9:45pm
Ton Kiang is often considered to be San Francisco's best Cantonese and Hakka restaurant. Most entrees are in the $10-15 range. Makes the annual San Francisco Chronicle's Top 100 Bay Area Restaurants list.
It's located in the Richmond District, which is 4 miles west of Chinatown, and shouldn't be confused with the Oakland suburb of Richmond in the East Bay.
5821 Geary Blvd. (between 22nd and 23rd Aves), Richmond District;
tel: (415) 752-4440;
www.tonkiang.net;
www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/listings/restaurants/venuetop2006?vid=181542
If you are looking for a piece of real San Francisco - a place frequented by the few natives who can still afford to live in the city - this is it.
Gaspare's, formerly known as Vince's, has amazing pizza in a decidedly unpretentious, almost kitschy, atmosphere.
I grew up in this neighborhood and ate there often - devouring every bit of thin crusted, olive oil soaked, garlic permeated goodness. I recommend the "Bruce Special." I also recommend that you steer clear of anything but pizza.
5546 Geary Blvd, San Francisco (Richmond District);
tel: (415) 387 5025;
www.gasparespizza.com
Get down to the ball park for the cheap standing room tickets. You can have a look all around the stadium. It's a great day out (when it's warm)
One of the best-kept SF secrets. A lovely outdoor place on the bay with (usually) live salsa, grilled oysters and other seafood delicacies, and wonderfully convivial atmosphere.
855 China Basin (Potrero Hill)
A place to booze, dance, and meet the opposite sex. Clothing optional. Expect to see people in just body paint.
Cow Place;
www.exoticeroticball.com
In Japantown, this is on a par with the spas in Budapest (high praise). Sauna, steamroom, plunge pool, large jacuzzi, amazing massages... Spend a couple of hours utterly detoxing then walk out and binge on sushi, so feeling even more healthy. Has women-only and men-only days. Beautiful decor, very calming. If a friend's going to San Fran, buy them a gift token.
www.kabukisprings.com
1750 Geary blvd.
San Francisco, CA 94115
Tel: 415 922 6000
Fax: 415 922 6005
Open daily 10am - 9:45pm
Storefront church in the Filmore district that believes that the word of the Lord is communicated through the music of John Coltrane. The service (Sundays, 12pm-3pm) consists of roughly 2 hours of exceptional jazz and 30 minutes of the Archbishop Franzo King's messages of local grassroots activism to make the earth a more loving, peaceful and just place. Musicians are welcome to bring their instruments and sit-in from their seats. The bass player's smile will make a believer out of all doubters.
1286 Fillmore Street
Tel: 415 673-7144
www.coltranechurch.org
Located off Townsend between 3rd & 4th Street in the thriving South Beach /Soma area, 330 Ritch Street has been hosting events, receptions and club nights for over a decade.
Known for its underground appeal, hipsters flock to this club five days a week for it's various musical genres. Especially recommended is Popscene, a Britpop night each Thursday bringing you the best in indie, Britpop, mod and electronica.
We were staying for a week and in that time managed to see Jet (before they were big and who we ended up going out drinking with), The Libertines and Black Rebel Motorcycle Club.
330 Ritch Street (nearest cross street: Brannan & Townsend at 3rd);
tel. (415) 541 9574
popscene-sf.com; www.myspace.com/popscenemusic
Interesting hotel if you're looking to stay somewhere a bit different. Their rooms are designed and painted by artists from around the world. Great location - three minutes’ walk from Union Square, one block from Chinatown. Rooms are small but this hotel is great for anyone more interested in unique/niche/boutique than luxury.
447 Bush Street;
tel: (415) 956 3232 or toll free in the US on 1 800 956 4322;
fax: (415) 956 0399;
email: reservations@sfhoteldesarts.com;
www.sfhoteldesarts.com
Gorgeous neighbourhood restaurant out on Russian Hill. Californian, French and Mediterranean cuisine. Food is always good and you can get the cable car out there, which stops rights outside, so you can hear the clanking of the cars and peel of the bells. For that meal with someone special it hits the spot time and time again.
1091 Hyde Street (the Cable Car stops ride outside); tel: (415) 928 1406
Want some Dim Sum? Go to the oldest dim sum house in San Francisco, with lime green tables and orange chairs. It's also by Hang Ah Street - one of the small back alleys in Chinatown between Grant and Stockton. After filling up wander along the street, cross Clay St into Spofford Lane, cross Washington St into Ross Alley - along the way see the fortune cookies factory and hear the mah jong players clicking away in the rooms lining the lanes.
Hang Ah Tea Room: 1 Pagoda Place; tel: (415) 982-5686;
Hang Ah Street is between Grant and Stockton Street, off Sacremento Street
Zeitgeist is a must on a sunny day. They have giant cocktails, a good selection of beers and lovely barbecued food. Tamales from the Tamale Lady is a must if she comes in. Interesting people as well.
199 Valencia St (nearest intersection is Duboce Ave), San Francisco, CA 94103;
tel: (415) 255 7505
For the best seafood lunch in town go to Swan Oyster Depot on Polk Street. It's been there for ever, owned by the same Italian-American family, food is fantastic.
1517 Polk Street
+415 673 1101
This restaurant in San Francisco has wonderful food, and an exceptional wine list.
1550 Hyde St, San Francisco, CA 94109;
tel: (415) 775 1550
A collectively owned and operated progressive bookstore in the Mission District. It has a great selection of books on politics, media, anti-racism, globalisation, and Latina/o history and culture, as well as constant lectures, readings and courses.
888 Valencia Street (between 19th and 20th), BART: 16th Street or 24th Street;
tel: 415 282 9246;
www.mtbs.com
Beautiful lake right in the centre of Golden Gate Park. Hire a rowboat for about five bucks, and make nice lazy progress around the central island, perhaps stopping to pick blackberries on the way. Of all the things I did whilst in SF, this was the most relaxing and idyllic.
Muni (the municipal railway) offers connections to the park from transit stops throughout the city. See their pdf for more information: www.goldengateparkconcourse.org/docs/2005%20Muni_GoldenGatePark_Brochure.pdf
SF can be an expensive place, so if you want to get plastered on a budget, I recommend this place. It's a cheap bar - drinks for a dollar when I was living in SF a few years ago. It's not fancy, but it's not a total dive either, and you always get an interesting crowd in.
1535 Folsom Street in Soma (four blocks south of Market and 11th);
tel: 415 621 6087; www.theholycow.com
A beautiful winery, off the beaten track in Sonoma Valley, which is a short (2-3 hour) drive from San Francisco. The reason I choose this winery over all the others is that they are the only winery that I know of that pairs hors d'oeuvres with each wine you taste. The taste of the food really brings out the flavours of the wines, making for an enhanced wine-tasting experience. The winery is also near the gorgeous Alexander Valley, famous for its Zinfandels and its stunning scenery, much more rustic and picturesque than commercial Napa Valley.
I suggest either hiring a car in SF and spending a day driving around the area, or booking yourself onto a wine-tasting tour/limousine, obviously allowing you to sample more of the region's produce.
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