Smile Travel Vietnam is an online travel company based in Hanoi which offers a full range of service from visa to hotel reservations. They are receiving good comments from travel forums like Thorn Tree or Tripadvisor.

Address: No. 92, 81/24/47 Lane, Lac Long Quan Street - City: Hanoi, VIETNAM

www.smiletravelvietnam.com/

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Okay, it is a chain and you are possibly subsidising Paris's hair extensions, but I thought that this was a really nice contrast to the great guesthouse we stayed at in Hoi An.

The (dis)advantage is that you are out of the hurly burly of the frenzied old town, which is where most tourists stay. For that you get a rooftop pool, gym, flawless service, huge breakfasts and a really peaceful night's sleep. You also get Americans on business travel shouting at the staff, but nowhere's perfect.

The hotel is next to the Opera House, five minutes' walk to the lake and another five to the edge of the old town.

It was less than $100/night (averaged it out with super cheap Hoi An guest house, so it did not feel too extravagant!)

www1.hilton.com/en_US/hi/hotel/HANHITW-Hilton-Hanoi-Opera-hotel/index.do

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We definitely do not recommend this hotel. Despite its pretty rooms and good location, the manager decided three days into our stay our room rate was higher than what we were quoted when we arrived. When we disputed this he made up the difference by adding taxes and beefing up the phone and laundry charges. The guys who work there appeared drunk.

You'll also get asked a hundred times about your plans and they'll try to sell their tours - though this is much the same across the entire city.

9 Ngo Huyen Street

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Many of the taxi drivers at the airport are on comission from the hostels in Hanoi. They may agree to drive you to the city centre and then tell you your hostel has closed down once you get there. Don't listen to them and insist that they take you to the correct hostel. If they don't, just pay them and get out of the taxi, walk to the nearest bar, and figure out how to walk to your hostel.

It may be worth emailing your hostel and arranging an airport pick-up in advance, most of the larger hotels and many hostels provide this service.

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