Everyone knows about the Vietcong complex at Cu Chi near Ho Chi Minh City, but less celebrated are these equally fascinating tunnels that lead on to the beach.

Moreover, they are a little taller and wider than Cu Chi, so somewhat less claustrophobic. A particular highlight is the 'hospital', little more than a cubby hole where women came to give birth.

Best bet is via the many tourist offices in Hue - wherever you go, you'll probably end up with a Sinh Cafe tour anyway so might as well book direct.
www.sinhcafe.com.vn/

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Fantastic little restaurant run by a family of deaf people. Go for the Banh Khoai - crepes with fish and/or veg - but make sure you leave with one of their trademark bottle openers - handmade from a piece of word with a bolt on it. The owner will make, sign and date one for you. Amazingly effective and a memorable souvenir.

The atmosphere is really good, the staff friendly, the food is great and very cheap - a meal for less than £2. Good for veggie food too. Beware the imitators, including the place next door!

Lac Thien: 6 Dinh Tien Hoang. West of the river, near the Citadel.

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Superb 4/5-star hotel right by the river, revamped Art Deco style.

Rooms gorgeous. Have a pre-dinner G&T in the bar with exquisite crudites.

Perfect place to escape noise and bustle - unwind in the spa with no end of tempting massages.

La Résidence Hôtel & Spa
5 Le Loi Street, Hue City, Vietnam
Tel: (84) 054 837 475
Fax: (84) 054 837 476
E-mail: resa@la-residence-hue.com

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