A butterfly-shaped country in the heart of the African continent, Zambia has been overlooked in the past by people heading for the neighbouring countries of Namibia, Botswana and Zimbabwe. With the latter's slide into political chaos, however, and the accompanying slump in tourism, Zambia has been quick to cash in. It is lucky in that its town of Livingstone stands on the opposite bank of the Zambesi river to the town of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.

Traditionally tourists headed to Zimbabwe see the waterfalls that Dr David Livingstone introduced to the world but today, more and more are going to see them from the Zambian side. As a result, the tourist infrastructure and facilities are improving. There are now plentiful lodges and hotels both within Livingstone and a short drive from the town. These range from: the five-star colonial Royal Livingstone Hotel, located right next to the falls; to the Islands of Siankaba, a collection of upmarket tented rooms upstream of the falls; to Fawlty Towers, a well-loved backpackers' joint.

Although many visitors still spend a few days at the falls then head off to Namibia or Botswana to get their safari fix, Zambia has some spectacular game viewing of its own; it's just not so well known. The country's most famous wildlife sanctuary, the South Luangwa, covers 9,050 square km and is renowned for its leopards. The birdlife is also incredibly rich - some 400 species have been spotted there. For those who relish the prospect of coming face to face with an elephant or lion, a walking safari is the way to go. Pioneered in Zambia by conservationist Norman Carr, these range from hour-long gentle strolls to week-long expeditions across the savannah.