A cool, modern B&B with a cool (slightly eccentric) host. Located close to the National Museums, a few steps from the Leidseplein square. It is not in the centre of town, so it's calmer and quieter at night. We stayed in the Patio Room - a good size, with a roomy modern bath.

B&Bs are the best deal in Amsterdam. You get personal service, and you can sit down and chat with the owners about lesser-known places to go, and how to avoid crowds at the tourist traps.

If you have difficulty with steep stairs, or if someone in your party is in a wheelchair, you'll have to check in to a modern hotel.

87 Leidsestraat, 1017 NX Amsterdam; tel: 20 622 98 34; www.marcelamsterdam.nl/

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