Vesterbro is the old working-class district of Copenhagen that starts just behind the Main Railway Station. As Denmark is turning more and more xenophobic, introvert and ‘American’ in its denial of its own weaknesses, Vesterbro still keeps alive its reputation from World War II as a haven for tolerance and community spirit.
Today it is a cultural melting pot with many good working-class and student pubs/cafes. You can also find cheap (but not unfashionable) clothes shop and some of Denmark's best ethnic restaurants - check out the Turkish, one of which once received 4 chef hats in Politiken's (the main newspaper) restaurant reviews.
This is the Copenhagen that you don't hear about in the glitzy brochures but where real Danes live and struggle to put food on the table. Enghave Plads is the centre of Vesterbro.
Exit the Main Railway Station towards Istedgade (the waning red light district).
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If you want trendy bars, alternative galleries and a bohemian lifestyle, this is the place to head for. Be aware that the part nearest the station is full of sex shops and a haven for junkies.