This restaurant, open only for lunch, is one of the loveliest in Istanbul.

It is situated inside the northern wall of the Spice Bazaar, and is entered via a stone stairway just inside the gate.

Remarkably quiet, decorated with lovely Iznik tiles, Pandeli is famous for its vegetables, and though it is always said that the food is not as good as it was in its fabulous heyday, one can still find subtle evocations of Ottoman cuisine.

Sample the meze, try the hünkar beğendi. A wonderfully civilised place in which to pass part of an afternoon.

Spice bazaar, inside the gate facing the water.

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