Lundy is a Norse word meaning puffin, so ‘Puffin Island’ gives the game away somewhat. There are still puffins there, and this is what many people who visit the island are hoping to see, though in truth most tourists would be ill-equipped to do so, as the little birds don’t just stroll around on the footpaths, preferring instead to hide away on the extremely high, sheer cliff-sides that define the island.
On arrival, most likely via the MS Oldenburg that sails regularly from Ilfracombe and Bideford (the alternative being a rather more ostentatious helicopter), you‘ll find a 3.5 mile long and 0.5 mile wide granite outcrop residing in the Bristol Channel about 11 miles from the mainland. It rises some 400 feet, and when the heather’s in bloom, it makes a particularly pretty sight as you approach the small harbour at the bottom of the eastern cliff. There’s only one path up the cliff-side, which most people walk (it’s about a mile) though you can get transport if you need it. As a general rule though, there are no cars (or anything that you could call a proper road) on the island.
On the way up you’ll see a Regency style house, the residence of a former owner of the island, but this is hardly typical of the buildings that make up the small village that you’ll discover once you’ve reached the cliff-top. Inevitably, they’re mostly small, granite affairs that house the island’s 19 permanent inhabitants. There’s also one shop, a Victorian era church and, of course, a pub, the Marisco tavern, named after a former 12th Century ruler of the island, William de Marisco. Outside the village, on the south eastern corner, is a medieval castle that was built by Henry III.
The tranquillity of the island is legendary, as are the sea views and the opportunities for various forms of wildlife study – from bird watching to underwater exploration. I was very surprised to spot some wild deer in the middle of the island, but they’re very shy despite their limited territory. Lundy is also a gift for artists and photographers so don’t forget to take your gear.
Apart from day tripping, there is accommodation of various types on the island if you fancy a real retreat from modern life. No cars, no high street franchises, no office buildings, and no street lights – you can actually see the stars at night while listening to the roar of the Atlantic on the rocks below.
The MS Oldenburg runs regularly from Ilfracombe and Bideford during Spring - Autumn months.
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My husband used to love philosophising during the evenings at the tavern after pulling out rhodis all day and then, in our loved up youth, we spent a very happy time drifting around the many walks and sights of this tiny island. But our best time was with our kids (no TV or playstation but sadly mobiles do work out there) watching puffins, walking amongst the rocks and having them drag us off in to the Marisco Tavern which greeted them in a truly friendly manner.
The Tavern boasts numerous books and games to amuse all ages, is welcoming at all hours and there is usually a troubadour or two (with instruments on hand) to provide an up-market kareoke element. Once, we even had a unicyclist display around the whole tavern, weaving his way amongst the drinkers and diners.
This is an island that provides both peace and quiet when required but also many opportunities for socialising. We would have no hesitation in going back because, having been on many occasions, it's been a novelty every time. Oh, and the tavern's male loo has one of the best views in the whole of the country!