Walk through a small doorway in the city walls and you come out onto an amazing bar set into the rocks on mutliple levels, overlooking the sea. You get waves crashing in front of you, and the city wall rises behind you. Stay for a glass of wine or local beer at sunset, and the only noise you'll hear is some quiet chatter, the waves crashing below, birds squawking as they play above your head, and some Sinatra or similar playing quietly in the background. When it gets dark, the waitress brings out candles for all the tables.

It's all very basic, with plastic cups and chemical toilets, but it's so worth it for the view and the atmosphere.

There's two Buzas (the name means 'hole in the wall', I think) but Buza 1 seemed to be closed when we were there.

Follow the city walls around at the very south of the old town on Od Margarite. Look out for a doorway in the wall, with a wooden sign saying 'Cold Drinks'.

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