The best Chinese Vegan meal you are ever going to have - go on, be brave, and order moss soup for entre, then sweet and sour gluten, tofu with 3 types of mushrooms and honey pumpkin for main, and marvel at the food as the original Mother Chu - must be aged about 80 - sits in the corner nodding off occasionally. I've been going there for 11 years and when I lived in the UK for 3 years I missed it more than Mum.

367 Pitt Street, Sydney. +61 2 9283 2828. Nearest station Town Hall.

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