Apparently there are 161 monasteries in Bulgaria, and this wonderful restaurant has 161 dishes on the menu taken from them, made an even more lengthy read with its anecdotes, proverbs and cooking tips.
The traditional food is superb, with many dishes not usually found even in other "traditional" menus. An extensive wine list, a very relaxed and friendly atmosphere make this an ideal place to go for a leisurely meal. Like most restaurants in Sofia, it is open all day, in this case from 11am-2am.
In the heat, the courtyard is a delight, with trees and a water mist system that keeps it wonderfully cool. Be warned that in this and most restaurants in Bulgaria, the portions are more than generous - sharing is fun! Booking absolutely essential.
ul. Han Asparouh 67
tel 02 980 38 83
www.magernitsa.com
Off 6 Septemvri Str, one block from Patriarh Evtimrii Bld.
Closed Sundays.
At the risk of appearing to be a total prat, but in the hopes of clinging on to some credibility, I have to report a third, disastrous, visit. This time inside, as rain was forecast. The many rooms of this building are fully decorated with folklorica, which is fine, but do there also have to be unavoidable monitors amongst the decor, showing silent singing and dancing, unrelated to the music on sound system? Maybe the chef and the main staff were on holiday along with all the other natives of Sofia, but every element of the evening was a failure. Food not good, service - chaotic and arrogant, a deadly mix. Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
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