For some unfathomable reason, the frutos do mar (seafood) restaurant, Marius, at the Leme end of Avenida Atlántica is praised to the skies in certain quarters. Frankly, an evening spent drilling holes in your kneecaps would be a more agreeable experience. Its over aggressive staff are clearly trained to push drinks, t-shirts and anything else on unsuspecting diners. The food is bland and overpriced, and the horribly twee Barnacle Bill ambience make this a place to avoid like the plague.

There are plenty of less touristy seafood options in Rio. For a vastly superior product, at the same price and without the hard sell, go to Satyricon on Rua Barão da Torre in Ipanema. You won’t regret it.

Satyricon is at Rua Barão da Torre, 192, Ipanema, tel. 2521-0627, www.satyricon.com.br. Marius could be on Venus for all I care.

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