This bed and breakfast network is superb. You are set up in one of the colonial mansions in Santa Teresa, a picturesque bohemian barrio clinging onto the hillside. You reach its 19th-century grandeur by boneshaking tram that rattles through the narrow streets. We stayed in a huge villa - Casa Ana - with a spectacular breakfast in a walled garden. The place was so atmospheric; a real antidote to the flash of the Zona Sul and the poverty of the favelas. And with the relatively cheap taxis it's easy to get anywhere. Highly recommended.
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