Louvre blues? The antidote is Musee Jacquemart-Andre (B Haussmann, west of Gare St Lazare).

Climb the lightest of monumental staircases to a wonderful private art collection in a sumptuous Second Empire mansion. Splendid audioguide.

And when exhilarated rather than exhausted make for the tearoom, or walk back along Boulevard Haussmann for celebratory lunch at Brasserie Mollard.

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