This museum is situated within the citadel complex and therefore free to get in, once you have paid to go in the whole area. We nearly missed it, as we are not really into guns and both guide books were dismissive - 'OK for those with plenty of time and nothing better to do' was how one guide book recommended it. But it is a gem. It tells you everything, right from the beginning and how dynasties grew and diminished and the country emerged into how it is today. The building it is housed in is absolutely fab as well. Give yourself a minimum of an hour, better still two, and you won't regret it.

Within the walls of the Citadel.

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