The 12 Apostel is housed under the arches of the S-bahn railway in the heart of the 'Mitte' part of (what used to be East) Berlin. Every last square centimeter of the walls and ceiling is covered in sumptuous murals, and every so often the whole place shakes as a train passes overhead. Irresistable reminder of Liza Minnelli screaming at Michael York in 'Cabaret'. Often crowded, unsurprisingly, as the food (pizzas) is terrific too.

Georgenstrasse 2, S-bahn Bögen 177-180, Berlin 10117. Phone 030-2010222. Nearest U- and S-bahn stop: Friedrichstrasse.

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