In no way a suggestion to be over-suspicious or paranoid, but first time visitors to Moroccan cities please do know that any offers to show you something usually mean you will have to reward (and unexpectedly heavily) in the end. More obvious in Marrakech, but even in the more laidback Essaouria I had a very friendly old chap who was very keen to show me old boats being repaired in the harbor. As it was just there, on the spot, I haven't thought he was thinking of himself as a guide. But naturally, a request for 50 dirhams followed. That's about 3 pounds, so five minutes of gazing at the underbellies of ships translates into something comparable to National Trust. I thrust five dirhams into his hand and walked off - the good thing is that people rarely make fuss. But the sad fact is that almost everyone who approached me during my week there was really keen to promote some sale or receive a payment. This does wear you out.

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