I recommend exploring east Berlin. Take the U-bahn to Schönhauser Allee U-bahn station, or better, Eberswalderstrasse, one stop earlier. There’s a fast food stall under the station where you can get an excellent currywurst with chips. From there you can walk to Kollwitzplatz, a small square commemorating the artist Käthe Kollwitz. She was known for glowering portraits drawn with charcoal. Until a decade ago it suited this north-eastern part of the city, but the neighbourhood now is cheerful and gentrified. The buildings in the streets around Kollwitz Strasse have had their bulletholes filled in and been painted bright colours, and there are lots of excellent cafes, restaurants and bars. There’s even a weekend farmers’ market.

Eberswalder Strasse, U2

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