I waited outside this mosque for my male friend to finish looking around: having that morning met up with a woman who had been screamed at for being improperly dressed, I was reluctant to risk the same treatment for some perceived infraction.
This site is of religious importance so I was surprised be the subject of sexual harassment there. I actually conducted an experiment whereby I stood perfectly still and allowed the leering men to circle me ever-closer, in an effort to see just how close they would actually get right inside the busy compound of the mosque.
Before my experiment was really completed my companion returned, and so it only behoves me to say if you are female and visit this place do not be lulled into thinking you will be any less harassed once you get there. After living in Istanbul for one year I can honestly say it was the most dangerous place to be female I have ever been to.
If groups of dodgy-looking men jingling change in their pockets and calling 'How much? How much?' as you nip from your house round the corner to the supermarket in broad daylight on a busy street would bother you then you might want to give Istanbul a miss. If you would be annoyed at being ripped off for every item you try to purchase (forget taking a taxi anywhere), sexually harassed by every man at every opportunity or stopped by police to be relived of your passport and then receive demands of payment for it to be returned, then I'd thoroughly recommend you to go somewhere else. A huge pity, because the city itself is unforgettable.
I've lived in Istanbul for over ten years. I've also lived in Rome for a long time, and elsewhere. My female colleagues in Rome never ceased from complaining of serious harassment, from which I had to rescue them, sometimes dangerously threateningly. My female Istanbul colleagues, both expat and Turkish, almost never. Why?
I would have to disagree, my experience of the Eyup district and the mosque was that it was actually the most friendly and approachable place in Istanbul and so were the people there. I was escorted around the complex by a female guide. Nor is the mosque the fifth holiest place in Islam (there are only three - the mosque in Mecca, the Prophet's mosque in Medina (both in Saudi Arabia) and The Al-Aqsa mosque in Jerusalem). Eyup is a place Muslims choose to visit as the mosque houses the grave of the Prophet Mohammed's standard bearer after which it is named. Being ripped off is symptomatic of most cities that have large tourist populations and the first conversation the locals will have with you is to be wary of exorbitant taxi fares. Most sites within the old parts (Fatih) are within walking distance anyway.
As someone who travels more than a thousand miles to visit Istanbul every year, I have never experienced such a thing - men circling a lady or people yelling at women because they are improperly dressed, some exaggeration maybe? And your experiment is pretty weird, by the way...
Well, I'd agree about the rip-offs, except I have never experienced it so badly and relentlessly as in Istanbul. It actually made life quite miserable and made one reluctant to make almost any purchases without taking a Turkish friend do the whole transaction, which wasn't always convenient.
I also have to disagree. I lived in Istanbul for two years and have been visiting Turkey regularly for 10 years, including travelling around Turkey on loacal transport as a lone female, and did not once experience the kind of harassment you describe. You say you 'did not have one female friend or colleague, either foreign or Turkish, who had not been sexually assaulted'. Do you really mean assaulted? I find this incredible.
Yes Ajem, I do mean REALLY assaulted. The worst experience that I heard of was a friend of mine who was extremely lucky not to have been gang raped. I suppose the most physical thing that happened to me personally (apart from the endemic groping on the bus) was when I took a taxi, in a main city street in the middle of the day. It was raining, and getting in the taxi, I folded up my umbrella. The whole of the trip the taxi-driver kept enthusiastically saying 'siknik, siknik?' (f***) to me (I just pretended not to understand), while simultaneously driving with one hand and reaching behind him to fondle what he thought was my knee, (but was in fact the soggy end of my umbrella), with the other. On coming almost to my destination he decided that maybe something was amiss and turned around to see what it might be. I have to confess at this point to grabbing his wrist, thwacking it with the umbrella as hard as I could and jumping out of the taxi. I also have to be honest and admit to not paying my fare - I am generally an honest person but do not feel remotely unjustified in this case.
Being ripped off by taxi drivers or being annoyed by some people is something not only peculiar to Turkey. You can come across this in almost all southern countries. Istanbul is a huge city with a population of about 15 million and you have all kind of people there as in London or any other city whatever that might be. Having lived in Istanbul for ages, I would say that either you were hanging out in ghettos or you are just exaggerating way too much. You had better travel to other southern countries to make a fair comparison. Istanbul, taking its size into account, is a safe city with wonderful historical heritage, culture, people and cuisine.Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
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