There are also some beautiful gardens and villages in Carlow. It is one of Ireland's hidden gems. Nothing outstanding like Connemara or Kerry, but in exchange you get majestic hills, rivers, great fishing and lovely villages. Try Leighlinbridge, just off the main road out of Carlow on the way south. It's about 10 minutes' drive and is a lovely heritage village on the river barrow. The Lord Bagenalstown is a cheapish place to stay, but has great service and homely food. Also the owner has penchant for art and has quite a valuable collection of contemporary Irish art on his walls.

Up the road by the river is an unprepossessing looking grocery store - but it secretly doubles as a pub. Just walk though the shop and into the tiny bar in the back. In the 60s and 70s these type of premises were commonplace. Now they are rare. The only other one I know that has survived is in Abbeyleix.

When in Kilkenny, make sure to climb the steps of the round-tower at the old Augustinian Friary. Amazing views of the entire city.