Sorry to be a downer but I was very disappointed. I live in the Middle East and love it but Damascus is not worth visiting compared to, say, all of Jordan for antiquities, Oman for real Arab culture, Istanbul for atmosphere and visible history or even Alex for vibrancy. The historical area is small, not very well looked after, severely compromised by recent modifications. The rest of the city is like Bucharest circa 1987.
I am amazed that other people found it friendly; I found it creepy, sullen and resentful. I speak some Arabic and I am familiar with and respectful of the culture, so it wasn't me! Maybe because I have had much better Arabian experiences elsewhere (including food), that element was completely lacking for me but charmed others.
What didn't help on our first night there was two scary hours of detention by (presumably) the secret police - we never really knew who they were. Our apparent crime was looking at a map (a poor photocopy provided by our hotel, the very unhelpful and mediocre Meridien) to try and find our way back from the old city at night.
A pushy little cigarette seller had a gang of thugs quickly surrounding us when we didn't comply with his instruction to hand over the map. Pleas to passers-by fell on deaf ears as did calls to our hotel. I guess, as another correspondent said, many people are in the pay of the secret police. The fact that my friend was a gulf Arab automatically made us suspicious, apparently, and I guess this guy thought we were his payday.
We were physically restrained on the street, bundled very roughly into a car, brought to a building in an unmarked compound, left in a bare room where various people would wander in and quiz us over an over or just bark at us in English and Arabic without ever telling us who they were or why we were there, then finally turned out on the street after midnight.
Damascus is not without some charms (eg the market by the Ottoman mosque near the National museum, much better than the souq) but there are many other places more worth visiting. In Syria things can go suddenly wrong for no apparent reason and you have no recourse to anyone. Your lack of security is a fact which you can choose to ignore and it may never matter. But it just might.
Another scam that an acquaintance of mine (long-time Syrian expat) experienced in Damascus was with changing money. The official rate is ridiculous so everybody uses the money-changers who hang around the souk. When he did this, he was immediately arrested by 'police' who demanded a hefty payment ($300) to release him because this is offically illegal. The money-changer was not arrested of course.
Basildon supposes I am naive and brought the trouble on myself, even doubts my veracity. Habibi, as I said, I live in the Middle East (my fifth country and fourth continent of residence) and the more than 50 countries that I have visited include most of the Arab world. I have been to many potentially more dangerous places than Damascus.I can speak enough Arabic to have been able to communciate with the un-uniformed thugs that detained us. I was with an Arab. Several phone calls to our hotel in English, French and Arabic (Le Meridien, not a little guest house) yielded no help but being passed around and put on hold and offered nothing. The trouble started because we did not comply with an instruction from a guy selling cigarettes from a tray to hand over our map which we were simply using to find the best way back to our hotel after dinner in the old town at around 10pm. We were on a large intersection with plenty of people around. It was late October so there were virtually no tourists in the city yet nobody intervened to help or see what was going on despite our requests to passers-by. As I said, our detainers seemed to have a bigger issue with my Arab friend than with me (I am Irish). The most compelling lesson for me was the realisation that there was no recourse when we got in trouble and anybody could be an agent of the secret police. Just who do you call? Damascus feels more like 1980s Eastern Europe than anywhere else I have been in the last 15 years (including eastern Europe).
And the money changing incident happened to a Syrian friend of mine, who now lives in the Gulf, and had returned for a holiday.
For antiquities, Jordan is far better as well as friendlier. For edgy partying Beirut is good (if a little 'fake' now having been largely rebuilt). For real Arab culture, try Yemen, again comes with risks. Oman is friendly and safe and authentic though fairly modern.
I wanted to see Damascus for years and was seduced by the many Polyanna reviews of the like here. It just is not that great and much riskier than the other writers contend.
I second the remark about taking this with a pinch of salt. An unfortunate incident that could have happened anywhere. I'm sorry that you had such an unpleasant experience in Damascus. I've lived there on and off for the past five years and while I've had run-ins with the police (both secret and regular) they have never resulted in much more than a 20 minute conversation with the local captain. When I first moved there I would get picked up about twice a month. When my mum comes to visit she'll take herself off around town at all hours, modestly dressed, and while she would be a pretty easy target she is treated with the utmost respect and kindness. The one time some local hood started to kick off outside the souk she found herself surrounded by local men who berated the hood and made sure she got home safely.
I'd have to agree with Basildon - there is trouble to be had if you want it, and if you react to hostility with similar then you'll get it in spades. Stay cool, offer cigarettes, and if all else fails then a request to call the British Embassy normally clears things up in a twinkling.
I've been to Damascus twice and it is the friendliest city I've ever visited, so I'm surprised and horrified by Aerach's experience. I was heading through Iran to Pakistan after Syria, and had some trouble with getting a Pakistani visa. Damascus was the last place I could get one, but it meant going from the Pakistani embassy, back to Damascus city centre, then to the Swedish consul's office in what seemed like a never-ending circle to arrange photos of different sizes and signatures all according to the whim of the Pakistani clerk. I was helped out by friendly Syrians every step of the way, and they seemed genuinely upset that the Pakistani embassy was jerking me around. The taxi-driver who ferried me around all day even refused payment at the end of it! All in all, Damascus still rates as one of my favourite cities ever visited. I have been to Damascus a few times while backpacking throughout the region. I spent a few months in the city in total and was really embarrassed by the level of hospitality and friendliness of almost everyone I met. There is an innocence about the city that is really charming.I did have one encounter with petty officialdom but it was a really blatant and slightly nervous attempt at a small bribe - about $10. I asked for the police which saw me on my way. Public officials are paid appallingly and so there are a very small number of people who might try it on but it is really rare and nothing to get worried about. Stand your ground and ask for the police or the embassy or both and you will be fine.
Be polite though. People who speak a bit of Arabic are probably at a slight disadvantage so feign ignorance if you have any language skills.
Once, when I was a bit stuck and needed some money changed urgently, I asked a 10-year-old shoe shiner (via an Arabic speaking friend) who used to hang around near the hotel if he could help and handed over the money I needed changing. Anywhere else, he would have legged it but I was really impressed to see him running back 10 minutes later with every penny accounted for and completely out of breath. Of course, he would have expected a reward but believe me, he deserved it.
Another time, whilst in Palmyra, we got talking to a local when we were looking for a hotel. He insisted all four of us stay at his place for the night, provided a banquet fit for a rugby squad and steadfastly refused any 'gift' no matter how hard we tried when we were leaving the following day.
Be polite and respectful and Syria is a joy.
I have travelled throughout the Middle East and yet the Syrians really stand out in a region already famous for its hospitality. Of all the places I have ever been to, Damascus is the clear favourite - I was mesmerised then and still am now.
I have to sadly agree with Aerach's comments about Damascus. The Old City is very pleasant, especially at night when it's not so hot, but overall I was disappointed with Damascus. It has the overwhelming feel of being suffocated by the ludicrous traffic and pollution, and far from being polite, the taxi drivers here and in Aleppo are the biggest bunch of crooks I have ever come across. There is also surprisingly little to actually do and visit, for such a famous city. Aleppo, however, has a real charm and fascination to it that Damascus doesn't have.
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
Search Been there
I’m wondering how much of this trouble he brought on himself - if it is true, then he must be very naïve. If I were his mum, I’d be anxious about letting him loose in Tottenham, never mind Damascus.
There are low-lives in Damascus as there are anywhere else in the world. The difference is, there are relatively few of them in Damascus and if you do encounter them you likely won’t end up with any physical harm, unlike some other popular tourist destinations.
To find trouble in Syria, you actively have to be looking for it. If you’re a regular tourist out to enjoy Syria, you’re highly unlikely to encounter any hassles. As a rule, branches of the tourist police are everywhere, but if you have a problem (highly unlikely) report the issue directly to the manager of the hotel. As for women, dress more modestly than usual, don’t hang around in public places too long, and walk confidently and purposefully without establishing eye-contact with any passing males. I know two female tourists who wore local-like headscarves. They were treated with unfailing courtesy and respect everywhere they went, but don’t feel obliged to imitate their example. Bear it in mind, though, especially when venturing out into the less-touristy areas.
On the subject of money changing, bear the following in mind:
For as long as anybody can remember, the Dollar/Syrian Lira exchange rate has hovered between 49 and 52 SL to the $. Don’t expect anything less than 48. Don’t change on the black market, not because it’s 'dangerous', but because you’re most unlikely to get as good a deal as you’ll receive in the regular banks (the traders in Hammadiyya, while charming, drive a hard bargain, albeit with considerable panache and grace). Don’t even think of changing money in Marjeh/Saahat El-Chouhada. You’ll either get a lousy rate, ripped off or both.