Just off one of the main streets in Essaouira, take the narrow staircase to the first floor and you'll find a small restaurant full of 60s/70s retro memorabilia with a welcoming owner, laidback atmosphere and unbelievably good food. As a (free) appetiser you are brought flatbreads and delicious dips; the main courses are a mix of tagines and French-style dishes, all amazingly good; puddings - if you can fit one in - imaginative and indulgent. House wine is very good, prices fair, service deliberately relaxed - it's easy to spend a whole evening here and I recommend that you do. Definitely the best food we had in Morocco.

Le Restaurant Elizir
1 rue d'Agadir
Essaouira
Tel 024 47 21 03

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