The Japanese island of Naoshima, in the shimmering, subtropical Seto Inland Sea, is an art-lovers' paradise reached by ferry from Uno on the mainland or from the city of Takamatsu on the island of Shikoku. Walk round the Art House Project in the old fishing village of Honmura, where many of the ancient houses have been transformed into fascinating installations. Admirers of world-famous architect Tadao Ando are spoilt for choice with his Contemporary Art Museum and the wonderful, newer Chichu Museum, which boasts a roomful of Monet's water lilies paintings. Then head for the waterfront to watch the sun set behind Yayoi Kusama's iconic Pumpkin. You can stay in contemporary luxury at ultra-stylish Benesse House or else spend a night with the locals in a traditional minshuku. Quite extraordinary and utterly bewitching.
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