The most visited attraction in Italy, the grandeur of Rome’s Colosseum seems barely untouched by the endless tourists that come to take its picture, the endless traffic that must begrudgingly detour around it and the endless decay that has come from centuries of pillage and rampage.
As a local, I see the Colosseum almost every day but nothing will take away the strength of my first impression of stumbling across it floodlit at night as I emerged from the Colosseo Metro station. And even if some days I can take it for granted, taking time out to go and appreciate it properly is still something I do on a regular basis.
While the lavish days of gladiator battles may be long gone, the Colosseum still evokes an aura of majesty and if you stand inside and close your eyes, you can still imagine the shouts of the crowds inside as they watched the spectacles of the gladiators fighting wild animals and each other o face death or glory.
Built by captive Jews at the end of the first century for Emperor Vespasian, it was originally called the Flavian Amphitheatre, built on the same wetlands as the Roman Forum, which stands alongside it. Its inauguration was an unforgettable show of lavish display lasting 100 days and involving the deaths of many thousands of gladiators and 5000 wild beats.
The building is oval shaped and stood at four storeys high, its facade made of travertine stone. There are three circular tiers each made up of its distinctive arches, 80 on each tier. The ones along the bottom were the original doorways. Once inside, an estimated 80,000 spectators took their free seats around the arena which was 253 feet by 153 feet, their seating depending on their social position.
The arena was open air, but there was a huge canopy ‘the velarium’ which was extended across on ropes to protect the crowd from the sun. Ceasar had his own royal box, surrounded by his consuls and officials whilst the only women allowed in were the Vestal Virgins and the Empress.
Underneath the arena there were elaborate systems of pulleys and machinery to bring the caged exotic animals such as tigers, hippos, crocodiles, elephants and bears into the arena from the tunnels below to fight their bloody battles for the pleasure of the crowd. One of the most heart-wrenching events was when prisoners sentenced to death were let loose into the arena, and given weapons with which to kill each other.
After the crowd were warmed-up with preliminaries, it was time for the real battles of gladiator combat. These were often fights to the death, but if a gladiator was badly injured, he could appeal to the crowd for mercy. If the crowd felt he had fought well and deserved to live, the crowd gave a ‘thumbs up’ sign. Often gladiators were slaves, prisoners of war or condemned criminals. A successful gladiator could expect riches and a life of privilege.
These barbaric practices were eventually stopped around 3rd century with the advent of Christianity. As the saying goes, “While stands the Colosseum, then Rome shall stand ” but despite earthquakes, plundering (much of its materials were taken to build other monuments in Rome such as St. Peter’s Basilica) and general neglect (at one time it was used as a stone quarry), the building is still remarkably intact.
How to Get There
The easiest way to get there is to take the Metro Line B to Colosseo. Otherwise it’s a short walk or bus ride from Piazza Venezia, passing through the ruins of the Forum down Via , controversially built by Mussolini. Tickets 9 Euros (but also includes access to the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill and it stays valid for two days.
Buy the Roma pass which is a combined discount card at any ticket booth around the city (23 euros and includes a free 3 day public transport pass and entrance into 2 museums including the Colosseum). Roma pass holders have a special entrance so avoid the queues. Otherwise buy your ticket at the Palatine Hill for shorter waiting times.
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