Kimi ryokan is a 4-storey, old-style Japanese inn, complete with well-lit darkwood hallways, small tatami mat rooms, and a friendly bearded owner, who is constantly polishing the wooden floors, all in the heart of Tokyo! The rooms may be functional (small), but they are very clean. The shower stalls may be communal, but they appear to be made of marble, whilst the deep wooden Japanese bath on the 1st floor is a must for soothing tired limbs in the evening. Don't forget to take your sake in with you! In 2003, singles cost 4,000yen, doubles 7,000-8,000. Definitely book in advance. They speak English.

Kimi ryokan is in Ikebukuro, 5 mins from the underground stn. Tel. 03 3971 3766.

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