Estancia Cerro Guido is a working ranch spectacularly situated on the border of the Torres del Paine national park in Chile. From there you can ride out to an Indian grave, a heaped stone cairn at what feels like the top of the world, snow topped mountains all around and always with the “torres” and “cuernos” in view - the granite towers and horns of the 12 million year old Torres del Paine massif. When I was there condors circled above, close enough to hear the wind in their feathers, and 30 more tore at a dead sheep as we rode past on our descent, listening to the eerie shriek of a guanaco. In the evening picture windows let us prolong our enjoyment of the view, while our lamb bbq dinner in the luxurious estancia only heightened the contrast to the wild and remote location.
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