A tiny hamlet with tumbledown cottages and magnificent views just below Cruz de Fero, the high point of the ancient pilgrim route to Santiago. It's totally quirky, with the most amazing medieval style bar, Gaia, just like the Inn at Bree in Lord of the Rings, serving fantastic food. Unless you're a pilgrim you won't get to stay in a tiny chapel, lit all night by candles, and be inducted into the order of Templars by the eccentric hostel warden, nor the extremely funky hostel Monte Irago; but you can hang out with clusters of pilgrims, visit the chapel built by a 12th century hermit, and stay in the pension next to Gaia. Recommended for its combination of eccentricity and total peace.
www.latabernadegaia.com/
on the main road from Astorga to Molinaseca via Rabanal, north of Leon. Or walk from Astorga - 26 K, and a stunning trek.
Google map: bit.ly/KAPA0R
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