For views of Barcelona minus the crowds head to the Carretera de les Aigües, a track that runs for several miles around the shoulder of Tibidabo, the mountain that dominates the top end of the city. Buy a standard metro ticket, take the Ferrocarrils to Peu Del Funicular then change onto the funicular railway and get off at the next stop up, called Carretera de les Aigües. A left turn at the station entrance and you've got three miles of country track among trees with only the panoramic views, a few joggers, and birds for company. At the end of the track you come out next to the Tibidabo funicular where you can either head up to the very top of the hill or take the Blue Tram back down into town. Before you do either, stop for a quick drink at the Mirablau café, and gaze out through the picture windows at yet another fabulous view of the city.
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