If you master the “louage” system of shared taxis, you can get anywhere in Tunisia at very reasonable cost and often share a cab with a friendly local who will give you useful tips. From Sousse we got to the amazing Roman city of Sufetula, with its virtually intact theatre, temples and triumphal arch, the staggeringly beautiful Kairouan – fourth holiest site in Islam - where we bought a hard wearing kilim carpet, and the glorious oasis of Nefta, with its 400,000 palm trees – where we were taken out into the desert to see a mirage.

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