Veterans of roads less travelled will not mind the one hour ferry crossing of the Pentland Firth to the Royal Burgh of Kirkwall, capital of the Orkney Archipelago. Those in a hurry can take the flight from Glasgow, Edinburgh or Aberdeen (connections to London). The city’s architecture tells of a grand Norse past. The formidable red and yellow stone St Magnus Cathedral dates from the C11th and is one of Scotland’s finest. Those favouring earlier times will find tours from Kirkwall of Orkney’s ancient Neolithic sites, the greatest concentration in all Europe. Autumn is the time to visit in particular for nature lovers when the whole archipelago thrives with migratory birdlife, which can be seen on walks along wild and sometimes stormy headlands, or on organised boat tours. In the evening the harbour is the place to be with a good mix of bars and friendly island locals. Whiskey lovers will be interested in Kirkwall’s Highland Park Distillery, the northernmost distillery in the world.

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