McCarthy’s Bar* says this is the best bar in the world. Outside it looks like my old cub-hut, inside the floorboards are bare. The pictures tell the stories: a young Queen Elizabeth II; framed WWI dreadnoughts; and, still arousing, a fifties-era Vargas pin-up girl in a negligee. Noël Coward, Kipling and King George V drank here. No longer a colonial capital, Levuka is quiet now; offshore is Wakaya, the hideaway island where the unfortunate Keith Richards fell out of a tree.

*page 119


Stay:
Royal Hotel. Sensational! Genuinely unchanged since colonial days. Fiji's oldest hotel. In the snooker room you can easily imagine the joking and laughter of long-departed flying-boat crews - their pictures are still on the walls. Real value - a few £s a night.

Eat
Whale’s Tale
Good local dishes. Try breadfruit here, it’s good.

Ovalau Club, Totogo Lane, Levuka, Ovalau, Fiji.

goo.gl/maps/a68Fv

(No findable phone number, or website, or email - it's that kind of place!)

Royal Hotel
Robbies Lane, Levuka
www.royallevuka.com
Phone: + 679 344 00 24

Whale's Tale
Whale's Tale
Beach St. Centre of town.
Phone: + 679 344 0235

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