If you’re in central Transylvania to visit the cultural hubs of Sighisoara and Sibiu, take the opportunity to head off the beaten track and explore some of the Saxon villages of Târnava Mare. With most towns preserving their colourful history with names in Romanian, German and Hungarian, settlements such as Biertan (Birthälm; Berethalom) and Richis (Reichersdorf; Riomfalva) boast extraordinary fortified churches, sleepy monasteries and a tangible sense of the past. You could book a tour, but best of all is to explore the area under your own steam by means of the local bus network, which is reliable if slightly unpredictable. Medias is a good starting point.

Google map: bit.ly/XJo4Cd

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