They pack them in at this traditional, unpretentious 'bouchon' and booking is essential unless you turn up at 11.30am.

People eat early in Lyon and in between strict hours - you won't get an order in if you turn up any later than 1.40pm. This place is small and busy, and there is a choice of three set menus, all very good value.

We had four courses for 21 euros - salade Lyonnais with croutons, poached egg and lardons, then typical regional beef and sausage dishes, followed by local cheeses and then dessert.

11, rue des Marronniers, Lyon;
www.chabertrestaurant.fr/ChabertetfilsFrame/vitrine.html

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