All of Rio’s beaches tend to get packed – except the small, idyllic Joatinga beach, which feels like you could be on a deserted island. Locals go there on weekends, so if you turn up on a weekday you will be one of the only people there.
The only way of getting there is in a cab – and you need to check he knows exactly how to get there. It’s at the end of the Estrada de Joá and through a private condominium, where there is a precarious trail down to the beach.