The best (maybe only) local in the centre of Dublin. Basic - even down-at-heel - it succeeds in being both pretentious and unpretentious at the same time. Pullulates with penurious artists, wannabe Joyces and alcoholic has-beens diluting their woes in stout. Staff are firm but fair and sometimes friendly. You can have any grub you want as long as it's a ham and cheese toastie or a variant thereof.

The walls are chock full of the patrons' art - a democratic explosion of crap and colour that does much to brighten the dim interior. You never know, you may even pick up a future Hib-Art gem for next to nothing. Quirky. Incomparable. Essential.

15 South William Street, Dublin 2; tel: 677 9320

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