Maybe it's all too, erm, "literary," but the trip down to Sandycove on the DART is a must. You can dive into the water at the legendary Forty Foot though, since women are now allowed at this gentlemen's bathing spot you need to keep those togs on. And right above you is the Martello Tower where Ulysses begins, preserved as a slightly overpriced but totally entertaining little museum. The ability to stand atop that stone tower, as Stephen did that long ago Dublin morning and look out on the bay is a wonderful thing for those who love Joyce's work.

Take the DART south from Dublin to Sandycove, walk down Adelaide Road to the water, turn right (east) and follow the shore to the Forty Foot (at Sandycove Point)

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