If you're shopping on the Corso or heading towards it after a hard morning's slog in the Forum and up the Campidoglio, there are wonderful enoteche, cafe-bars and restaurants tucked away on either side.

Vic's on Vicolo della Torretta offers fast, sustaining lunches (soups, salads and excellent-value wines); Gino in Vicolo Rosini serves spaghetti alla vongole and coniglio al vino bianco with such zing the local MPs are willing to queue; and neighbouring bars Vitti and Ciampini in Piazza Lorenzo in Lucina (an elegant, airy space) are wonderful for an al fresco drink even in winter - they thoughtfully provide outdoor heaters.

Afterwards, wander back up the Corso and across the grand expanse of Piazza del Popolo to Santa Maria del Popolo, its shadowy interior magicked into life by Pinturicchio, Raphael, Bernini and Caravaggio - and then up to the Villa Borghese and the Pincio for the classic, breathtaking view of domes and spires.

Vic's, Vicolo della Torretta 60; Gino in Vicolo Rosini 4, off Piazza del Parlamento (tiny and hard to find -you may need to ask for directions); Vitti and Ciampini, Piazza Lorenzo in Lucina 33 and 29

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