The Ming Kee serves the best chilli squid in the world, and the other seafood is good too. Po Toi Island is just off the southside of Hong Kong Island but time has stood still there. Most of its inhabitants are from one lineage (family) group and they specialise in seaweed and other herbal remedies, which they sell from little stalls.

Mainland tourists get brought here in swarms in huge boats from Aberdeen to eat at the Ming Kee but they have left by 1pm. Until peace is restored you can hike around the island, taking in spectacular views of the South China Sea and the islands. On a clear day you can see the islands which lie out to sea from Hong Kong, but were always part of the People's Republic.

It is not easy to get to. The ferry, is an experience in itself, an aging multi-coloured family boat, the husband collects the tickets and the wife pilots the boat. It runs from St Stephen's Pier, Stanley, by St Stephen's beach on Sundays only (it used to go at 11 and 12 and return at 3 and 4 but you would need to check). Otherwise you have to hire a kaido or junk.

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